What Do You Want To Look 👀 For In Your Parrot’s Cage?
In this video I’m reviewing an A&E cage and a flight cage (no brand); I’ll also tell you a bit about Caiques and Crimson Conures, which are in the two cages I reviewed.
The four –most important– things you want to look for:
1) Cage Size There are some basic rule-of-thumbs to look for in a cage:
A cage needs to be double your parrot’s wingspan in length and triple in width and depth
2) Bar Size
Specifically, you parrot should not be able to put their head through the bars. If they can, they can get stuck and injure themselves. This is why minimum size requirements are given in LxWxH but also in bar spacing distance.
3) Rail & Tray
Easy Removal For all their beauty, intelligence and splendor, parrots are the messiest animals! They get their poop EVERYWHERE! On the side of the cage, the bottom and outside the cage- no exaggeration. In order to keep a healthy parrot, so that you have the best-behaved and most loving parrot possible, you have to keep their home clean. A cage that allows you to slide the rail and bottom tray out makes most of your cleaning a lot easier. If these don’t slide out then you either have to remove your parrot to clean their cage or you have to hope you can work around them.
4) Your Parrot’s Activity Level & Tail Length
A little parrot, like a Budgie, is active. They are balls of energy and, even though they are small, they need lots of room to jump around or fly around their cage, generally speaking. I have a Yellow-naped Amazon; she is not as active. She spends all day on two perches in our living space (unless she is with me), so giving her a cage that allows her to hop around and fly is pointless. I adopted her as an adult bird, so I don’t know her history, I don’t know why she doesn’t fly.
While it is still best to give your parrot the most space possible, how active they are and how long their tail is should be factored into their cage size. Some parrots have long tails, like my Indian Ringneck in the video. She needs plenty of space so that she can easily move around and turn around without squishing her tail.
Additional Things You Might Want In A Cage:
Being able to place a nesting box on the cage:
Some parrots, like Conures, like to sleep in nesting boxes. Even if you aren’t breeding, boxes can provide a wonderful place to sleep, depending on the species and the number of parrots in your cage (cockatoos can get aggressive over the “territory”).
Easy food/water access:
Some cages require that you ‘enter’ the cage to place food and water inside. Ideally, you want to be able to open a door and easily replace these dishes so that your bird doesn’t escape, if you have a new bird or have issues with this. You also want to not get bitten if you have a parrot who is territorial about ‘their space,’ which can be common with some species.
Some cages don’l leave much space between the rail and the bottom tray. Parrots are smart and they will put a foot through the railing to try to reach something below. Offering enough space so that you parrot cannot reach the bottom of the cage where old food and droppings are, which collect bacteria, will help avoid health issues. All parrots can reach, so even small parrots can reach. Make sure the bottom tray is deep enough that they won’t grab anything below.
— Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
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