Shocked Me: A Budding GI Yeast Infection!

Notice Carmen’s Tail

This week, I was given a Golden Conure named Carmen by a gentleman who had loved her dearly. After 20 years together, he could no longer provide the life she deserved. Carmen was lonely after having lost her mate some time ago: she was in need of a bird companion and I have a Golden Conure, Boatrix.

Carmen’s affectionate nature was evident right from the start. She chatted with us on the car ride home, let us pet her, and behaved as if we had always been a flock.

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Undigested Seeds

The next morning, I noticed undigested seeds in her poop, and alarm bells went off in my head. Thankfully, I had already scheduled a wellness appointment with my avian veterinarian. What I initially thought would be a routine checkup turned into a quest to uncover a serious health issue!

A few steadfast rules about parrot health are that their poop should not smell, their diet and clean environment are crucial, and their food should always be digested.

Undigested food often points to a few potentially life-threatening issues: liver problems (such as Pacheco’s Disease), kidney issues, PDD (Proventricular Dilation Disease), or AGY (Avian Gastric Yeast).

Of course, undigested food always indicates a problem in the digestive system.

My veterinarian examined Carmen’s weight and keel bone and ruled out PDD. The gram stain test results quickly revealed AGY: a significant overgrowth of yeast, so much so that it was budding, or replicating, in her system.

I was shocked!

If you’ve watched my videos, you know that health and cleanliness are top priorities for my birds. I’m very conscious of what they eat, so I’ve never encountered AGY.

My vet emphasized the severity of Carmen’s yeast infection and suggested that it might be causing other infections. The culture results will confirm this soon, but in the meantime, we began treatment for the yeast.

The Moral of the Story

We love our pets, our companions, and we want to show our love, just like Carmen’s previous owner did.

It turns out that Carmen had been sharing a little toast with jam most mornings. Even though inappropriate foods don’t seem to harm our birds immediately, they can cause issues over time. On the outside, Carmen looked like a healthy, beautiful bird and was affectionate with me initially. However, by the second day, I noticed she was ‘cranky’ and nipped harder than usual—a subtle sign that she wasn’t feeling well.

Her owner mentioned that she had never plucked her feathers before, but recently she had started pulling out her tail feathers. This was another sign that something was wrong. Carmen likely pulled out her tail feathers because she was in pain and was trying to make it go away.

It’s easy to want to spoil our birds, but the greatest love comes from caring for them properly. This includes providing the right diet and showing physical affection by spending time with them and petting them only on the head or neck.

Avoid Feeding Harmful Foods

Feeding Your Parrot: Fresh Foods, Dry Foods, and Pellets

In the wild, parrots eat a wide variety of foods that you may not have access to, but you can still provide a diverse and healthy diet for your feathered friend.

Fresh Foods

Parrots accustomed to variety will enjoy and benefit from various healthy foods. Most of these should be green, similar to what they would eat in the wild. Offer leafy greens and vegetables like broccoli regularly. For their keen eyesight, foods rich in beta carotene, like carrots and sweet potatoes, are excellent choices.

While fruits are high in fructose and parrots haven’t evolved to eat these (they usually eat unripe fruit which lacks the sweetness in the wild), exceptions can be made for fruits like mangos and papayas for the beta carotene.

Sprouted foods are also fantastic for parrots.

Dry Foods

I like to leave some dry food in my parrot’s cages (depending on their species) to complement their core pelleted diet. It offers an alternative that won’t grow bacteria or mold right away, the way fresh foods can.

Millet mixes (sold as a parakeet mix), oatmeal, pumpkin seeds, hemp seeds, chia seeds, and sesame seeds are great options when given in moderation. These can also make excellent treats.

Research is key when it comes to parrot health and diet- be sure to research what you offer so that you do what’s best for your bird.

Pellets

While I’m not the biggest fan of pellets, they offer significant benefits. Several vets and experts have told me that the introduction of commercial pellets for parrots resulted in fewer vet visits. My rescue Yellow-naped Amazon, Lorenza, was on the brink of death due to a seed-based diet that damaged her liver. My vet didn’t think she would survive, but a diet consisting of 99% pellets and fresh foods, including scrambled eggs, has dramatically improved her health. She’s not perfectly “normal,” but it’s been years, and you’d probably never guess she had been so sick if you met her.

Human Junk Food

Prossesed and sweet foods that are considered “junk” food for us are very likley ‘super-junk’ for our parrots. I always wondered why pizza is ill-advised for parrots: then I learned that bread puts candida yeast in a parrot’s system, and that they cheese can too! My vet says that parrot’s love cheese! She’s right!

Caring for Carmen and my other parrots has taught me that a parrot’s happiness starts with their health, and providing a proper diet and environment is the greatest way to care. The best way to show our love for our wonderful companions can be expressed in pets, time and attention given.

Why Do Parrots Hide Their Illness?

Why Do Parrots Hide Their Illness?

There are two answers to that, the ‘real’ answer and the other ‘real’ answer!

People know parrots are flock animals, and yet they don’t always treat them as such. By definition a flock animal needs it’s flock. Parrots are accustomed to being with their flock all the time, which is why I always advocate for having two parrots. It means twice the fun for you, if you spend time with them, and that your parrot will still have a flock when you aren’t around.

What does being a flock animal have to do with hiding illness?

In the wild when an animal is sick they are often killed either by predators or their flock. This may be an act of benevolence or unforgiving, it probably depends on how you think of it. Given that any animal in the wild can’t go into an animal hospital to get well or have a comfortable end, this leaves a sick bird with one option: hide the illness and hope to recuperate.

If a parrot in a flock was obviously ill, they would make their flock an easy target for prey. If predators were stalking them for this prey, the whole flock would be at risk. So the flock minimizes it’s risk.

On the other hand, when a parrot is feeling well, their [[well-being]] depends on the flock. Even in a flock as small as two in our homes, Parrotlets enjoy the company and comfort of another Parrotlet. This, of course, is true for most species of parrot. The other parrot can preen new pin feathers on the head, which a parrot can’t reach on his or her own head. The other parrot’s signs of companionship, such as beak touching, feeding or snuggling, all provide mental, emotional and physical health.

This means that it can be argued that your Parrotlet (and many other species of parrots, such as Green-cheeked Conures, Cockatiels, Budgies and more) hides their signs of illness AND will be healthier when their flock includes you and another parrot!


Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
Comment below, in my site (link below) or on the FB/Instagram messenger.

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TINK’S (CBD) OIL
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How Much Time Should Your Parrot Be Out Of Its Cage?

Cages can be jails for parrots or wonderful homes.

A “cage-bound” parrot is one that has not been allowed out of their cage and now they are so used to being in their cage, that they don’t want to come out. They are too afraid.

One problem is that most cages are too small for your parrot to spread it’s wings and flap them vigorously. That’s a great exercise for young parrots that are learning to fly. Parrots that know how to fly should – at the very least – have the room to spread their wings. Sadly, that’s not always the case.

Giving your parrot time out of their cage is meant to give them time to engage, time to exercise and time to explore their world.

At my best, even though I work from home, don’t really travel and spend most of my time taking care of my parrots, I can’t give any one of my parrots a reliable amount of time every day. This is because different things come up and need to be taken care of. Sure, in general you can spend time with your parrot, maybe even several hours a day. 

Parrots live in flocks of 20 to thousands, depending on the species. There are a few species that are exceptions, but most are accustomed to being with their flock, of close enough to hear them squawking, all night and day.

For us, as people, we think of our time in bed as time that would not spent with our parrot – and it can be dangerous to our parrot to sleep with them (people accidentally roll onto them and they suffocate). However, in the wild (depending on the species) and even in captivity, I find that a lot of parrots sleep right next to their mate.

Next, we run around getting ready for work or the day. If we go to work, we’re gone all day. This isn’t fair to a parrot that can’t understand why his/her mate is gone all night and then during the day too.

Parrots fly around during the day in the wild. This means that they are actively moving around, looking for food and staying with their flock.

Staying in a cage with nothing to do might be like putting Einstein in your attic with no connection and nothing to do.

How Much Time?

A parrot’s size, species, cage limitations and individual personality should all be factored in when deciding how much time your parrot needs out. The more time you can give them, the better.

Here are some things to consider:

Small Parrots

Small parrots have faster metabolisms. While they are more likely to be able to stretch their wings in their cage, if it isn’t too small, they have a lot of energy to burn. They like flying around a lot!

Large Parrots

While larger parrots, like larger Conures or Amazons, aren’t necessarily as active, they do fly but they need larger spaces in which to fly. My Mac’Girls (Macaws) open their wings to fly and they are already half way across the room it seems! They can fly for miles in the wild. Providing that kind of space to exercise is certainly challenging, I know. Free flying your parrot may allow them the space; otherwise, it is something to take into account when you are choosing a parrot. Large parrots really need more space than most houses can provide, but at least room to spread their wings and move is important — even if they don’t fly all day long.

Cage Size

If you are able to offer your parrot an aviary that allows them to jump around or fly, they may not need the same amount of time outside of their cage that most other parrots require.

Otherwise, letting your parrot out to go to their favorite place or to fly some is important. It is also important for them to have a space in your family’s home that is a ‘family room’ where the whole ‘flock’ comes together. In other words, you may have a bedroom to sleep in that is yours, just like your parrot has a cage, but a den or living room is a room you should enjoy together. This doesn’t necessarily mean that you are meant to spend all of your time paying attention to them. They don’t always pay attention to each other in the wild. It does, however, mean that you are sharing your lives together, as a flock. You are doing your thing, they are doing their’s, together.

Sure, you also want to spend some time engaging with your parrot – after all, that’s why you have a parrot. To bond with them and enjoy them. You just need to find the right balance for you both as to how much time needs to be spent engaging versus just being in the same ‘jungle!’

Individual Parrot Needs

The last factor is your parrot him or herself. Every parrot is unique. While some species are more energetic and active than others, there is also some variation within individuals of the same species.

Some parrots like to have more time and attention; others like to hang out and do their own thing. For example, my Cockatiel is not a typical Cockatiel. Generally speaking, they love to bond and be petted. However, not my LunaLove. She wants to be with me and around me, hang out on my shoulder — but not touched! If I try to pet her, she’ll give me a warning bite! She’s not the only one who is like that either. 

In other words, each parrot has it’s own characteristics and preferences. 

It is important to become aware of what your parrot needs to stay healthy and happy. I find that my parrots can accommodate my busy schedule because they have another mate of their species. It has never kept me from bonding with one or both of them, but it does add to the flock feel and, clearly, to their well-being.

Just like us, the more a parrot can be out of their cage playing, exploring and being with the flock (human and parrot) the happier and healthier they will be.


Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
Comment below, in my site (link below) or on the FB/Instagram messenger.

BOOK
Get my book Parrot Bliss Bond at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998010065?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

TINK’S (CBD) OIL
CBD oil for parrots! Help de-stress your parrot’s plucking, anxiety or pain and support a healthy immune system at ParrotBliss.com which takes you to https://shop.petlife.zone/product/tinks-parrot-relief/

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Lorenza, (Amazon Parrot), Don’t Eat Seeds! They Will Kill You! Ahhh!

Ok, I caught Lorenza, my #Amazon_Parrot, red-beaked! I can’t believe my parrot was eating seeds! I can’t believe they were on the counter, how did they get there?

It’s not easy having Amazon parrots living among nut-eatting parrots. Actually, I think a great way to have selected my flock would have been to choose the same kind of eaters. For example, most parrots should not have fruit on their diet. This is because parrots prefer and choose bitter fruit that is unripe and unready to eat, for you and I. They are so accustomed to bitter fruit that they will bypass a ripe fruit on the branch they are on and reach or go further to an unripe fruit in the wild!

So, if you have Eckies (Eclectus parrots) and Lorikeets, then you can dish fruit up for all – ripe fruits.

On the other hand, if you have Macaws and Cape parrots, instead of fruits, you’ll be buying nuts.

It’s just easier to feed everyone the same thing, especially because parrots strongly subscribe to the belief that the food in their neighbor’s bowl is greener…

Amazon parrots, along with Cockatoos and Quakers, are known for gaining weight, which damages their health. These are parrots that need to have a low-fat diet on a regular basis, lest they get fat, weaken their bones — because seeds prevent the absorption of calcium — and their veins collect the fat. Not the picture of health at all!

Lorenza had been that fatty parrot described above. As a part of bringing her health back in check, which I think I got lucky with, she is on a strict no-seed diet. I don’t use seeds as rewards or in any other way with her, they simply are not for her.

So, when she happened to have seeds within her reach… she went for them, knowing that I don’t approve. It’s pretty comical to see her sneaking the seeds and then have her run to her box and bag afterwards!

Have a questions about parrots?

As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!

Comment below, in my site (link below) or on the FB/Instagram messenger.

BOOK

Get my book Parrot Bliss Bond at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998010065?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

TINK’S (CBD) OIL

CBD oil for parrots! Help de-stress your parrot’s plucking, anxiety or pain and support a healthy immune system at ParrotBliss.com which takes you to https://shop.petlife.zone/product/tinks-parrot-relief/

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Is Millet Beneficial Or Is It ‘Junk Food’ For Your Parrot?

Millet: A Natural Food
And it is eaten the world-over, but should your parrot have it?

Researching today is interesting because the internet makes it easy and fast. Only problem is that it also makes it easy and fast to find contradictory information.

Is millet good for your parrot or is it ‘junk food?’ Because online, I’ve read that it is both. Could that be possible? Yes, depending on your parrot’s health.

You can check to see if your parrot is over or underweight in this video:

If your parrot is overweight, or if you have a parrot that should have a diet that is low in fat, like an Amazon, a Quaker or a Cockatoo, then millet can be a healthy part of your parrot’s diet — though not the core of their diet. It can be a great treat for a parrot like this, in moderation.

On the other hand, if you have a parrot that requires nut fat in their diet, like an African Grey, a Golden Conure or a Macaw, then millet is too low in fat and may not be a healthy addition to their diet.

Contact your avian veterinarian so that they can help you determine if millet can be used to help your parrot reduce the fat in their diet, or lose weight, if it is appropriate; they can tell you if it should only be used as an occasional treat or how much millet should be given, based on your parrot’s species and weight.

Do I Use Water Bottles For My Parrots?

Parrot Water Bottle?

 

If you have parrots, you know one challenge is keeping their water clean- parrots put their food in their water and accidentally poop in it – so providing clean drinking water can be challenging.

One way to keep their water clean is to use water bottles. They need to be taught to use the bottles so that they move the ball that keeps the water from dripping out, but are these the best way to provide water? Do I still use these?

Water Bowls?

The problem I encounter is that my parrots still need water in their cage in case they want to bathe. So I found that the water bottle was problematic for me. While they generally do provide clean drinking water, they didn’t meet the requirements my parrots have. I didn’t feel there was any point in giving my parrots a water dish for them to bathe in and give them a water bottle. Actually, it gave me twice the work!

I like to make sure they have a large enough water bowl, and then I have to make sure to change it during the day to avoid dirty water.


 

 

Are My Parrots Playing Or Fighting?

Are My Parrots Being Aggressive?

I’m putting two parrots -or more- into a new cage.

How can I tell whether or not they are getting along — or if they are going to hurt each other?

If you are like me, it’s a VERY important question because my heart sinks when there is any fighting and any injuries.

First:

Always Put Parrots Together In A Neutral Ground

When you bring a new parrot home or try to put two parrots together for the first time, ALWAYS put them in ‘new territory.’ If you add a parrot to another’s cage, you encourage aggression because the parrot with a cage believes this to be his or her territory.

 

Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!

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Transitioning Your Parrot To Pellets & Vegetables

The Parrot Challenge: Getting Your Parrot Eating Pellets & Vegetables

The Trick: Parrots Make You Think That They Are Starving!

So you offered your parrot pellets or vegetables and you were given –the stink eye! You may have been ignored and your parrot may be resolute in convincing you that they will quickly starve rather than eat pellets or vegetables!

But you can persist!

When it comes to stubborn eaters, one thing is generally true: a hungry person, child or parrot will change their mind about how food tastes. When you are accustomed to “junk food,” which seeds are like according to experts, then only junk food will do. Once you have been hungry for a little while, then your tastes start to change and Brussels sprouts become more acceptable to children.

I don’t want you to misunderstand me: I don’t starve any of my parrots to get them eating their pellets or vegetables- nor should you. On the contrary, I have food and water available to my flock 24/7. And all of my flock members, which is over 10 species of psittacines (or parrots), eat pellets.

Introducing Pellets To Your Flock

At the start of a new cycle, such as a new school year or a new job, everyone becomes a little more flexible, right? You are the ‘new guy’ on the block and, until you know whose feathers not to ruffle, you tend to go with the flow. I have found the same to be true in my flock. In the past when I have added new members to my flock, they have tended to notice that we are a flock, meaning that they hear and see other parrots. I think this makes them feel like they are in a good “parrot” place and I think this makes them more agreeable. Everyone is given pellets from the start, when pellets are appropriate to their diet.

Imagine losing all you know. In a flapping of your wing, your flock is gone, your environment changes and a new giant human is now taking you to their home. Having everything in your experience change all at once is stressful – so much so, that I’ve had avian veterinarians tell me that new baby parrots can get sick when they arrive at a new home just from the stress of getting a new home. It doesn’t always happen, but it’s not such a rare thing. (A good reason to take your new feathered fid to your avian veterinarian for a new parrot appointment).

All of a sudden, everything you knew has changed. When hunger comes, being stubborn is probably the last thing on your mind. Chances are that you are willing to eat what is offered to you. Thus, starting your parrot off on a healthy diet when you first have them is the best time to start healthy habits.

Most enamored parrot-keepers are likely going to watch their new fid to make sure that he or she eats- and I have found that it is common for a nervous, new flock member to eat little the first day. By day two your parrot should be comfortable enough to eat. This is a crucial time to make sure that they are eating. It’s only natural to offer a treat to a new parrot on their first day, but the treat can be something healthier like a carrot (popular wit almost all of my flock members), a dried chili pepper or a piece of sweet potato. A more tantalizing treat, like a seed or nut, can be offered, but if you do so sparingly, you are more likely to encourage the eating behavior you want to see later.

Smaller Parrots Require Seeds

If your new fid (feathered kid) is a Lovebird, a Budgie, a Parrotlet, Cockatiel or another similar small parrot then seeds are a required part of their diet. When I bring a new small parrot into my flock, I offer them pellets, seeds, vegetables in the morning and a millet spring. I want them to be as comfortable as possible as quickly as possible. Generally speaking, they eat the millet and the seeds, leaving the pellets. At that point, I leave the seed dish (and I tend to use no mess feeders which are a Plexiglas box they have to step into- this means droppings don’t get into them nearly as often and they can’t scratch the bowl empty) with empty seed husks. Now I watch to see if they will continue the behavior that has already started (of eating) pellets or if they don’t eat.

I find that once a parrot’s appetite has been stimulated and once they have started eating, they generally continue to eat.

I also do this for my small parrots that I’ve had for any amount of time. I know that they should be eating about 25-30% seeds, 30% vegetables and the rest pellets. So, I place seeds (a mix with no sunflower seeds – my parrots were overeating and still hungry with mixes that included sunflower seeds) and pellets in their space and I don’t replace the seed mix until I feel they have also eaten enough pellets.

Each parrot is different, of course. Some of my small parrots seem to prefer pellets, others don’t. Either way, I try to strike some sort of balance so that they are getting a fairly healthy diet, especially since I breed a couple species.

Medium & Large Parrots

With medium to large parrots the same is true. From day one I give them pellets and vegetables- parrots that require nut fat, like Macaws and African Greys, also receive nuts. I avoid giving these parrots seeds in general. They all love carrots and sweet potatoes – and peas! I find treats, like freeze-dried (salt and sugar-free) beets, that I can give them so that I have the enjoyment of giving out treats without feeling like I’m contributing to a poor diet.

I have had the rare parrot that didn’t seem to take to eating right away. In that case, I do offer anything to initially get them eating, but once they have had a few bites of anything, their appetite is stimulated and I find that I can get them to eat their pellets.

Morning Vegetables

It’s really fun to see a Parrotlet parrot rush to the vegetable dish as I’m placing it in their cage or to have my Macaw or Amazon fly over and start to eat vegetables out of the vegetable dishes I’m preparing. My parrots all look forward to and get excited about their vegetables. When I’ve had them since they were babies, they are accustomed to vegetables because they have always had them. When I have adopted them as adults, it has taken time for them – and they are still picky. One of my most stubborn Amazons started looking at her vegetable dish and started to pick things out when I’d been offering food for a year; two years later she eats some — enough to make me happy. After all, changing a lifetime of bad habits is challenging. Also, she eats pellets – no seeds at all- so the veterinarian has reported a greatly-improved bill of health (compared to when I first adopted her as an adult with issues).

Think That You Are Bigger With Your Bird

Yes, parrots are good at convincing us that they need something yummy to eat (probably convince us of other things too)! But you can be bigger in your thinking. Be persistent. I have never heard of a parrot truly starving because it was only given healthy pellets (although a parrot requiring additional fat in their diet could, I suppose. So check your specific specie’s requirements for fat or a lack of).

Give your parrot lots of love and attention – plus pellets. They will come around. Pellets – to my chagrin- almost all have sugar in them. I contacted Zupreem to ask why their was sugar in the ingredients and they said that this is to get the parrots to eat the pellets! So, take comfort in knowing that the pellets are made for them. They have everything from A to Z that your parrot needs and sugar to entice them!

Keep at your parrot. Don’t let them starve, if they truly are, something is probably wrong and you may need to get to your avian veterinarian asap. Otherwise, keep at it. Pellets aren’t that bad – my parrots only get the ‘natural’ colored pellets as opposed to the colorful ones because I don’t like food coloring – and they eat them just fine. Their feathers are beautiful, they are healthy and this makes for a loving, bonding and blissful parrot.

 


Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!

BOOK
Get my book Parrot Bliss Bond at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998010065?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

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Red Factor African Grey Or Follicle-damaged AG?

Factors In Parrots Mean Color Variations

If You Are Adopting An African Grey Parrot, How Do You Know If It Is Really A Red Factor?

 
If you are looking to adopt an African Grey (AG), you have to be careful about being sold a ‘red factor’ AG. They tend to cost more money, which is true to form in the sense that breeders have less parrots that are unique colors. It can take several generations to create color variations – or factors- in parrots. So, a higher price is fair.
African Grey parrots are, of course, grey, white and red. But not pink…
There are some legitimate red-factor parrots, and some parrots with feather-follicle damage.
One of my avian veterinarians said that no, there’s nothing detrimental about an African Grey having damaged feathers or plucking. It’s like you having a bald spot. Not attractive on an AG, but often it just looks bad.

If your pet is at home and plucks, obviously he or she won’t be cold or anything. However, it is super-important to dig into what is causing your parrot to pluck. There could be a variety of reasons, including health issues. (go to https://parrotbliss.com/why-do-african-grey-parrots-pluck-their-feathers/ to read about causes for plucking and some things you can do to try to remedy it).

 

Red Color Or Damage?

Not all feathers are created from breeding -some are due to follicle damage…
 
Photos: Natural red factor or damaged follicles?
 
In the pics, Venus, Adonis and Hera are illustrating their red feathers for us.
Adonis has all her feathers (yeah, I thought she was male… but DNA tests says female), but has a red feather or two in her neck. In the picture, she is all fluffed up watching TV with us.
I adopted ALL my AGs as adults – PLUCKED. Adonis is the exception – but Venus and Hera have always been plucked. It is very difficult to break an AG of this habit, but I try. Here’s a blog I researched and wrote on why African Greys pluck and things you can do try to stop them.
Venus is in the picture eating notes from the group I coach – hopefully, I won’t have to refer back to these! Venus plucks her neck; you may notice that there is a bald spot right at her throat. You can also see the light feather below that bald spot and there is a light colored feather on the back of her neck.
The close up of Hera’s feathers and the photo of Hera, who I adopted as a ‘red factor’ show that she has the most follicle damage.

Side note: My phylosophy with parrots is that, if I can handle it, I don’t mind the parrot I adopt being sick or having an issue. Life isn’t perfect, I don’t expect my parrots to be perfect either. Just because they aren’t perfectly healthy – which is sometimes due to a person’s lack of caring or know-how – doesn’t mean that I should reject them. I feel the opposite way; I’ve learned a lot from my mentor and I’m grateful to be able to restore their health whenever possible. I knew Hera was not a red factor; I adopted her because I wanted her in my flock. My avian vet did a wellness exam and agreed that she needs caring for, but is not red-factor and needs some TLC, but her plucking is just cosmetic.

How Can You Tell The Difference Between Red Factor Feathers & Damaged Feathers?

If you look at the pictures closely, you’ll see that Hera and Venus’ damaged feathers aren’t RED, they are varied and dull or faded. There are also some feathers that are part grey and part pink/faded red and white.

In my layman terms, the follicles are ‘confused.’

All of their grey feathers and tail feathers are consistently grey and red; the feathers, like on their head, that are grey with white edges look uniform, consistent and like they were designed this way. Feathers from the damaged follicles sometimes have inconsistent shapes and the colors look accidental and random or chaotic.

Unfortunately, caring for parrots has been far more involved – and rewarding- than caring for my cats and dogs. Perhaps it is because cats and dogs have been domesticated for so much longer; they just seem to easily and happily live with us. Parrots, on the other hand, are challenging. Each species has specific dietary requirements, which can vary to a almost no-fat diet with Amazons all the way to a heavy nut diet for Macaws and African Greys. They also require fresh foods daily, like carrots and other fresh vegetables. Parrots are intelligent and require more engagement than cats and dogs do. It is common to hear experts say that parrots require that you constantly buy them toys and/or provide enrichment (Video on What Is Enrichment on YouTube). Yes, parrots need to exercise their wings, their beaks (by chewing wood and nuts) and their minds. Yes, you have to figure out how to give them something to figure out! Dog’s are a man’s best friend (and a woman’s, no?) but parrots are a person’s demanding partner and companion who will outlive two, three or maybe even four dog’s lives.

When a parrot’s physical, emotional and mental needs aren’t met, they can run into physical or emotional health issues- and plucking can be either. So, while I don’t think it’s “bad” to have a parrot that plucks – not ideal, of course – I do think it is important to try to restore their well-being.

We had had a Green-cheeked Conure who had sezisures (she had been given to us because she had neurological damage so that she couldn’t fly and couldn’t use her feet too well). Our research led us to create a CBD oil for parrots in hemp oil, which has the correct balance of Omega 3’s and 6’s. So, I’m using this for Hera (and her partner Zeus, who we also adopted as a plucker). I’m intending for it to calm them if they feel any stress (which my Amazons or Macaws may cause) and to help give them the proper fat balance.

Additionally, I’m giving them time out in the sun and fresh air. Turns out, Mother Nature may have more floating in the air that will do them some good than you may have guessed.

We’ve been giving Venus time outdoors for several months and we are having a harder time figuring out which is Venus and which is Adonis when we look their way because some of Venus’ feathers are growing back. Hera had been on eggs, so now that she’s not, she and Zeus are receiving the same sun and air treatment and I can’t wait to see if it improves their plucking status!


Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!

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Teaching Your Parrot To Shower

Do Parrots Like To Shower?

Most do, yes. But parrots are like people. Young parrots need to learn to shower; parrots that haven’t been given showers aren’t used to taking a shower…

Cleanliness Is Next To Parrot-Godliness

Do parrots need showers to stay healthy?

YES.

Regular showers help parrots wash their body so that their feathers stay clean and beautiful. Showers help them remove dirt and keep mites away.

A Parrot’s Age & Showers

Like a toddler, young parrots don’t really want to shower. Unlike toddlers, you can’t put bubbles in the tub to entice them to bathe!

Teach Your Parrot To Bathe

Young parrots need to learn the joy of bathing – and initially forcing them to bathe can turn them off. Instead, teaching your young parrot to bathe needs to be a slow process that starts by just giving them a mist-squirt or two at their feet once every other day or every third day. As they start to get comfortable, you can then mist their feet and legs, gradually making your way — over time — up their body.

I have found that parrots are initially resistant to bathe but they suddenly switch and start to enjoy it.

Bath Tub Or Rainy Mist?

Your parrot’s bathing water will cover their wings, which they will probably preen. Use bottled water or boiled water that has been cooled is best t

Pool, Rain Or Sauna

Once your parrot is comfortable bathing, you can decide when and what kind of bathing to offer.

A ‘pool‘ is a large enough bowl that they can step into and splash around in. It is like a kiddie pool because it is not meant to be a body of water that they will be in up to their neck. Instead, like a kiddie pool, it should come up to their legs or the bottom of their body. This gives them enough water to splash around in. I love watching my Indian Ringneck use her wings to raise the water, creating her own shower. The water goes everywhere and she tends to look very pleased and happy to have a wonderful pool all to herself!

One of the things I like best about a pool is that it gives a parrot a place to dunk their head! This may sound funny, but they do dunk their heads in order to get water into their nasal passage to rinse it out. So, a pool can behave like a neti pot for them and contribute to their maintained health.

A delicate ‘misty rain‘ comes from a mister or a squirter, which you can generally get in the garden section of most stores. Like a delicate rainfall, it allows your parrot to get lightly wet all over. It also allows them to open their feathers and welcome the water under their wings and on the back of their wings.

A ‘sauna‘ happens in your bathroom. Take your parrot into your bathroom when you shower and let them enjoy the warm, humid air. It’s great for their skin- I would still offer a pool or a misty rain too, but if your parrot doesn’t like to shower -yet-, then this is a good way to start to get water on their body.

 

Frequency

Depending on who you ask, many experts will say that parrots should bathe daily.

While I don’t disagree, I do find that there are factors that influence how often a parrot wants to bathe. Like humans, I find that the parrots who are outside my house (enjoying fresh air and sunshine) get hot and want showers more often than when they are in the air conditioned house. If they are outside and have a lot of shade, they want it less or they want to get less wet than if they are getting more sun.

Winter and cold climates probably call for less frequent showering as well. If I were in a cold part of the country during winter, I’d be cautious and mist more than offer a pool to make sure my parrot didn’t get too wet and get cold. If your parrot does love to bathe and get wet, you can towel-dry them or use a blow drier. Initially they may not like the blow-drier, but once they have experienced it at a safe distance they start to get more comfortable. Generally speaking, parrots don’t mind the loud noise of the blow-drier. Please make sure that the air isn’t too hot so that you don’t over-heat their skin. Otherwise, if you go slowly at first, I find that most parrots don’t mind being dried this way.

Shower Breed & History

Two other factors that affect a parrot’s willingness to shower are their breed and history.

Breed: There are parrots, like Amazon parrots, who are clearly accustomed to being rained on every day in South America. I have found that my Amazons love to shower; they almost dance for the mist, spreading their wings and bodies to catch as much water as they can and often getting as wet as they can. On the other hand, a parrot from a desert area may not be as interested in getting soaked.

A parrot’s history can influence them. If you have adopted an Amazon as an adult, for example, and they were previously never bathed, then your Amazon is likely to avoid water. They simply don’t have the healthy habit. In that case, teach them to bathe as if they were a young parrot (described above).

Parrot Water Bliss

Think of yourself when you’ve had a long, hot day. When you finally get to jump into a refreshing pool or step into a shower, it is blissful!

Your parrot enjoys showers too. Taking care of one’s own body feels good, for both humans and parrots. Be sure to keep your parrot looking beautiful this way.


Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!

BOOK
Get my book Parrot Bliss Bond at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998010065?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

FACEBOOK
Join Parrot Bliss on FB at https://www.facebook.com/ParrotBliss
Join the flock on FB! https://www.facebook.com/groups/pbflock/

WEBSITE
Visit my site at https://parrotbliss.com/

YOUTUBE
https://www.youtube.com/parrotbliss