Lineolated Parakeet (Linnie) Complete Guide — The Calmest Small Parrot You’ve Never Heard Of

Picture a tiny golden bird perched on your shoulder, perfectly calm, while your puppy snoozes at your feet — and nobody panics, nobody bites, nobody screams. The bird doesn’t flinch. The dog doesn’t lunge. They just coexist, easy as a Sunday morning. That’s life with a Linnie. And once you’ve experienced it, no other small bird quite measures up.

Hey guys, I’m Kalyn, author of The Parrot Bliss Bond and several other parrot books. Over the years I’ve had the joy — and the chaos — of knowing over 30 parrot species up close. I’ve lived with Amazons, Macaws, African Greys, Cockatoos, Caiques, Conures, Parrotlets, Ringnecks, Pionus, and more. And after all that? The bird I keep breeding, keep expanding my flock with, and keep falling more in love with? The Lineolated Parakeet — the Linnie.

Before we dive in, watch this short video where you’ll meet Kiki, one of my yellow Linnies. She explains everything just by sitting there being her gorgeous, mellow self. 🦜

👆 Check out more on my @ParrotBliss YouTube channel!

🐣 Baby Linnies available now!


TL;DR: Lineolated Parakeet at a Glance

  • Species: Lineolated Parakeet (Bolborhynchus lineola), also called Barred Parakeet or Catherine Parakeet
  • Size: 6–7 inches long, 47–55 grams
  • Lifespan: 10–15+ years in captivity with good care
  • Voice: Quiet and soft — one of the quietest parrots. A flock is louder, but a single bird is very apartment-friendly.
  • Diet: Pellets, seeds, fresh vegetables, fruit, and grains
  • Companionship: Bonds deeply with people when handfed; does beautifully in pairs or small flocks; gentle with other species
  • Best for: First-time bird owners, apartment dwellers, families, or anyone who wants a parrot that actually chills out

What Is a Lineolated Parakeet, Really?

Most people have never heard of them — and that’s the wild part, because Linnies are spectacular. They’re native to the cloud forests and highlands of Central and South America, ranging from southern Mexico all the way down through Colombia, Venezuela, Peru, and Bolivia. In the wild they live in small flocks, moving quietly through the canopy, which explains a lot about their personality: they’re flock-oriented, calm, and not inclined toward loud drama.

The name “Lineolated” comes from the Latin for “lined” — referring to the dark barring that most Linnies wear like little zebra stripes across their green feathers. They’re also called Barred Parakeets for exactly that reason. But here’s something that surprises people: Linnies come in a stunning rainbow of color mutations. Green is the wild type, but breeders have developed blue, cobalt, turquoise, white, silver, lutino, and — my personal favorite — yellow. Yes, a tiny golden parrot that looks like living sunshine.

One of the most distinctive things about Linnies that people notice right away is how they move. They don’t perch upright the way most parrots do. They rest in a more horizontal posture, almost like a little barrel with wings, and they walk with a deliberate, rocking gait that is absolutely charming. People often describe it as the way they imagine a tiny dinosaur would walk. Once you see it, you’ll never stop smiling at it.

Here’s the other thing: Linnies are often overlooked in pet stores. They sit quietly, they don’t call out to you, they don’t make a show of themselves. People walk right past them to get to the louder, flashier birds. That, Kalyn will tell you, is a tremendous missed opportunity.


Meet Kiki: My Linnie

Let me tell you about Kiki — full name Kipuka, though she mostly goes by Kiki. She’s one of my yellow Linnies, and she is, without question, one of the most serene creatures I have ever shared a home with.

Kiki is probably a female — I say “probably” because Linnies are not visually sexable in most color mutations. You’d need a DNA test to know for sure, and I haven’t gotten around to it. What I do know is that she has this gorgeous butter-yellow coloring with almost no visible barring, which is unusual. Most Linnies have those little black zebra stripes across their feathers, just like a budgie. Kiki’s are so faint you have to look hard to see them. She’s just this smooth, luminous golden bird.

Kiki has a male buddy, and he’s the talker of the pair. He says things — little sounds, fragments of words — and when I watch the two of them together, it really does seem like Kiki is learning from him, picking things up, doing her best impression. I love that about Linnies: they soak up their environment. Their social intelligence is quiet but real.

But the moment I love to tell people about? Kiki hanging out with my puppy. I know, I know — a tiny bird and a dog sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. But Kiki was completely unbothered. She sat on my arm while the puppy sniffed around, and the puppy — bless him — actually leaned in and gave her a little kiss. And Kiki just took it. Didn’t bite, didn’t flap, didn’t lose her mind. Just sat there, dignified as a queen.

That’s Kiki. That’s the Linnie temperament.

I want to be clear: Kiki is on the exceptionally mellow end of the Linnie spectrum. Not every Linnie will be quite so laid-back. But even my more active Linnies — and I have nine of them in a little aviary — have that same fundamental sweetness. They don’t pick fights. They don’t bully. They just live their little birdie lives with this wonderful peaceful energy.


Linnie Temperament: What People Fall In Love With (and What to Be Ready For)

Three Things People Fall In Love With

1. The calm. Linnies are genuinely one of the most laid-back small parrots available. They don’t vibrate with nervous energy the way some birds do. They’re content to hang out on your shoulder, explore at their own pace, or just sit with you while you work. If you’ve ever wanted a parrot that actually relaxes — Linnies are it.

2. The gentleness. Linnies very rarely bite hard. They don’t go out of their way to start trouble with other birds or animals. They’re friendly, especially when they’ve been handfed and socialized from an early age. That makes them wonderful for families, for first-time bird owners, and for multi-pet households.

3. The quiet. One Linnie is remarkably soft-spoken. They make sweet, gentle chirping sounds that are pleasant to live with rather than piercing. If you’re in an apartment, or if you share walls with neighbors who might not share your enthusiasm for birds — a Linnie is a gift. (Fair warning: an aviary of nine? They do get a bit more vocal together. But even then, we’re not talking conure-level chaos.)

Three Things to Be Ready For

1. The invisibility problem. Linnies are easy to overlook in a store because they don’t perform for you. They need an owner who will actually seek them out, do the research, and appreciate what they are. If you get a Linnie expecting a bird that will entertain you with acrobatics and constant noise, you’ll miss the gift entirely.

2. Time and bonding. Time is the magical ingredient with every parrot — and Linnies are no exception. The more time you invest in handling, socializing, and just being present with your Linnie, the more deeply they bond with you. A neglected Linnie is a sad Linnie. They want connection.

3. Sex is a mystery until it isn’t. In most color mutations, you cannot tell a male from a female by looking at them. If you want a bonded pair and are hoping for babies, you’ll need DNA sexing. Don’t make the mistake of assuming — I’ve been surprised before!


What to Feed Your Linnie

Linnies thrive on variety. A bird eating only seeds is like a person living on crackers — technically surviving, but not thriving. Here’s what my Linnies’ daily plate looks like:

  • High-quality pellets (small size, appropriate for parakeets) — 40–50% of the diet
  • Fresh vegetables — leafy greens (kale, chard, romaine), broccoli, bell pepper, carrot, squash, cooked sweet potato. Daily if possible.
  • Fresh fruit — small amounts of apple, blueberry, mango, pomegranate. Think of fruit as a treat, not a staple.
  • Grains and cooked foods — quinoa, brown rice, cooked lentils, sprouted seeds. These are nutrient-dense and Linnies love them.
  • Seeds — a small amount of a quality seed mix is fine, but seeds alone are not a complete diet.
  • Always fresh water — changed daily, every day, no exceptions.

Please remember, I’m not a veterinarian or a nutritionist — this is what works in my flock. Always consult an avian vet for guidance specific to your bird.

Foods to avoid: avocado, chocolate, onion, garlic, caffeine, alcohol, and anything with artificial sweeteners. These are toxic to birds. And skip the heavily processed “people food” — your Linnie deserves better.


Housing Your Linnie: Cage, Space, and Enrichment

Linnies are small, but they still need room to move. Here’s what I recommend as a minimum — and remember, bigger is always better.

  • Minimum cage size: 18″ x 18″ x 24″ for a single bird. For a pair, go larger — at least 24″ x 24″ x 36″.
  • Bar spacing: 3/8″ to 1/2″ — this is critical. Anything wider and a Linnie can get their head stuck, which can be fatal.
  • Perch variety: Natural wood perches of varying diameters keep their feet healthy. Add a rope perch and a flat perch for sleeping.
  • Out-of-cage time: Aim for at least 1–2 hours of supervised out-of-cage time daily. Linnies need to stretch, explore, and interact with you.
  • Enrichment: Foraging toys, shreddable toys, foot toys, and swings. Rotate them so the cage stays interesting. Linnies are intelligent — they get bored with the same setup.
  • Location: A room where the family spends time, but away from the kitchen (cooking fumes, especially from non-stick cookware, are deadly to birds).

Don’t make the bird pay for a setup mistake. If the bar spacing is wrong, if the cage is too small, if the perches are the wrong size — fix it. Your Linnie can’t fix it for themselves.


Socialization and Companionship: One Bird or Two?

Here’s the honest answer: Linnies are flock birds at heart, and they are happier with a companion. A bonded pair will play together, preen each other, keep each other company when you’re away, and generally live a fuller birdie life. I keep mine in an aviary together, and watching them interact is one of my great daily joys.

That said, a single Linnie who receives generous daily attention from their human can absolutely thrive. If you’re getting one bird and you work from home, or you have lots of time to spend with your bird, a solo Linnie can bond deeply with you in a way that a bird with a companion sometimes doesn’t — because you become their flock.

What doesn’t work: a single Linnie who is left alone for long hours, day after day, with little interaction. That’s a recipe for loneliness, feather-destructive behavior, and a sad little bird who never reaches their full potential. If your schedule is demanding, please do your Linnie the kindness of getting them a companion.

Linnies also tend to coexist beautifully with other gentle species when properly introduced — as Kiki demonstrated with my puppy, they don’t come out swinging. But always supervise interspecies interactions, and never house predatory animals with birds unsupervised.


Linnie vs. Similar Species: A Quick Comparison

Linnie vs. Budgie (Parakeet): Both are small, colorful, and charming, and both have that striped/barred look. But Linnies have a more parrot-like beak, a stockier body, a slightly longer tail, and that signature horizontal posture. Budgies tend to be better mimics of individual words; Linnies are quieter and even more laid-back. If you want maximum chatter, go budgie. If you want maximum chill, go Linnie.

Linnie vs. Parrotlet: Similar in size, but very different in personality. Parrotlets are known for being feisty — they have big personalities stuffed into tiny bodies and can be quite territorial. Linnies are gentler, more easygoing, and less likely to bluff or bite. A Parrotlet is a firecracker; a Linnie is a warm ember.

Linnie vs. Green Cheek Conure: Green Cheeks are about 10 grams heavier than Linnies and noticeably louder (though they’re still considered quieter among conures). Green Cheeks are more acrobatic and playfully mischievous. Linnies are calmer and quieter. Both are wonderful — it really comes down to whether you want more entertainment or more peace.


Common Questions About Lineolated Parakeets

Are Linnies good for first-time bird owners?
Yes — they’re one of my top recommendations for first-timers. Their calm temperament and gentle bites (when they bite at all) make the learning curve much more forgiving. They’re still parrots with real needs, but they’re not going to scream the apartment down while you figure things out.

Do Linnies talk?
Some do! They’re not in the same league as Amazons or African Greys, but Linnies can pick up words and sounds, especially when kept with other birds that vocalize. My male Linnie says things regularly, and Kiki seems to be doing her best impression. Don’t expect a full conversation, but do expect some very sweet attempts.

Can a Linnie live alone?
Yes, with a committed owner who provides lots of daily interaction. If you’re home often and will genuinely spend time with your bird, a solo Linnie can thrive and bond very closely with you. If your life is busy, please get two.

Are Linnies noisy?
A single Linnie is one of the quietest parrots you can own — their sounds are soft, pleasant chirps. A flock, like my aviary of nine, does get louder, but even then the sound level is nothing like larger or more vocal species. They’re a great fit for apartments and condos.

How do I know if my Linnie is male or female?
In most color mutations, you can’t tell visually — not reliably. You’ll need a DNA test, which is simple and inexpensive (a feather or blood sample sent to a lab). If breeding is something you’re interested in, DNA sexing is essential. Don’t guess!

How long do Linnies live?
With proper diet, veterinary care, and a safe environment, Linnies typically live 10–15+ years. They’re a long-term commitment — which is exactly how I think about every bird I bring into my home.


Lineolated Parakeet (Bolborhynchus lineola), also called the Barred Parakeet or Catherine Parakeet. A small, stocky South American parrot native to cloud forests from Mexico through Bolivia, known for its remarkably calm temperament, distinctive horizontal resting posture, quiet voice, and gentle nature. One of the most apartment-friendly and beginner-friendly parrots in the world.


Linnie Quick-Start Checklist

  • ✅ Cage at least 18″x18″x24″ with bar spacing no wider than 1/2 inch
  • ✅ Natural wood perches in varying diameters, plus rope and flat perch options
  • ✅ High-quality small pellets as the dietary foundation
  • ✅ Fresh vegetables offered daily or near-daily
  • ✅ Foraging and shreddable toys rotated regularly
  • ✅ A committed avian vet located before you bring your bird home — not after
  • ✅ Daily out-of-cage time and genuine interaction with you

My parrots are my bliss — and the Linnies have earned a very special place in my heart and in my aviary. After more than 30 species, I keep choosing them, keep breeding them, keep watching people fall in love with them the moment they really stop and pay attention. There’s something almost magical about a bird that quiet, that peaceful, that perfectly itself.

If you’re ready to bring a Linnie home, please buy from someone who can show you the parents, the aviary, and the babies before the sale. I breed Linnies here at Parrot Bliss, and I’d love to help match you with your new little feathered soul. Visit my Available Parrots page to see who’s looking for a home.

Time is the magical ingredient with every parrot — and a Linnie will reward every moment you give them.

Catch you next time. 🦜

Aggressive, Adopted Amazons- Can They Become Adorable Best Pets?

Amazon parrots, often seen as one-person birds, possess a unique blend of independence and aggression. When adopted as adults, these feathered companions might carry emotional baggage from their past. Much like humans, they need time to unravel these complexities, often requiring a significant period, around two years, to heal and rebuild trust.

1. Emotional Space Creating an environment where these adopted amazons are free from coercion and allowed to find their place within a caring family is pivotal. Patience becomes the cornerstone; letting them be themselves, providing love, and nurturing a safe space for them to flourish is crucial to their recovery. This approach facilitates their journey of healing, gradually reinstating trust in human interactions.

To aid in the healing, I like to allow them as much cage-open time as possible, time when their door is open and they can come out or stay in, giving them the power of choice. A person or parrot with choice automatically feels different. They start to learn that there is more love and respect, allowing them relax and trust more so.

Amazing Amazons Despite their loud nature, amazons make incredible pets. Their loyalty surpasses that of many other parrot species. Once they establish trust, they become steadfast companions, always by your side. Their dedication and unwavering presence create a bond that resonates with their owners, making them cherished members of the family.

2. Time The journey with an adopted amazon is an evolution—a process where time, love, and understanding intersect. It’s a testament to the resilience of these birds, showcasing their capacity to adapt, heal, and form unbreakable bonds with those who offer patience and compassion.

3. Environment Try different things, like giving your Amazon the companionship of another parrot or at least the sounds from music or videos. Hearing other parrots provides a feeling of safety and comfort. Provide palm plants, a place for your Amazon to hide when they feel unsafe, a natural “toy” that they can chew and play with.

Every parrot wants to belong to a flock, just like we, as people, want to belong to a tribe. Just the same, parrot or creature, needs to be loved and respected. Provide these and, in time, your parrot will work through their issues. Their aggression will turn to adorableness, when you are patient and understanding. This doesn’t mean that anyone should get hurt (not the people at home or the Amazon parrot); it means that inappropriate behavior should be ignored. Positive behavior should be praised. When this is the case, your adopted, aggressive Amazon parrot will become one of the best pets or birds you’ll have.

Keeping A Happy Parrot Flock That Gets Along

Parrots can be quite territorial – 

In this video we’re talking about parrots getting along — not mating/breeding parrots.

When it comes to sharing, parrots are like people. They often think the grass is greener on the other side… so getting them to share food isn’t easy.

Instead, the two keys to keep in mind are:

1) Have multiple feeding stations available for your birds so that everyone has access to food. This way an alpha doesn’t have to come forward, causing one to dominate to eat while another goes hungry — or fights.

2) Cages

Smaller parrots, like Parrotlets, can usually be put together in a NEW cage right away. If a parrot has already been in the cage, it is harder to add a parrot to that cage. This is because one already has claimed the territory they are in. A new cage for both parrots means no one owns it yet and they can more easily come together. 

*Any time you put two parrots together for the first time, you must watch them to make sure that they aren’t fighting or having any issues. Just in case your small parrots have an issue, it is best to have 3 cages. This way each parrot has their own cage and there is a third, ‘joint’ cage. If they are housed separately, each should be in their own; if together, then they should go in the joint cage. 

The same is true for larger parrots – however, it is usually best to put these parrots in two cages side-by-side initially and let them ‘get to know’ each-other. Again, when the parrots are coming as close together in the cage as they can, then you can supervise and put them together. Similar to the smaller parrots, you should always have a cage for each parrot and a joint cage. 

It may seem silly to have three cages, but it is a must if you are looking to house your parrots together. Even once they are living together without any problems, the ‘single’ cages are useful in case one isn’t feeling well and needs to have some quiet and undisturbed time alone.

In the video I’ve got 9 medium to large parrots out and everyone is getting along. One reason for this is that out back is no one’s ‘territory,’ it is neutral. The other reason is that I have three different areas with food so that they can each comfortably eat with the parrots they already know as their flock-mates. In other words, I have 9 parrots, 4 species. The Cape Parrots, African Grey parrots and Caiques already know each other. My Golden Conure is making friends, but I basically have 3 food stations and 3 mini flocks.

Always watch your parrots. When parrots are bonded with each other and you, they tend to know how to relate to one another and they tend to get along. Initially putting parrots together calls for some time for the ‘pecking order’ to be established. Once established, most of the issues have been worked out (hopefully you supervised to ensure to fighting/injuries) and parrots happily enjoy time around other parrots — as long as there is plenty of space and food for them all.

Have a questions about parrots?

As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!

Comment below, in my site (link below) or on the FB/Instagram messenger.

BOOK

Get my book Parrot Bliss Bond at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998010065?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

TINK’S (CBD) OIL

CBD oil for parrots! Help de-stress your parrot’s plucking, anxiety or pain and support a healthy immune system at ParrotBliss.com which takes you to https://shop.petlife.zone/product/tinks-parrot-relief/

FACEBOOK

Join Parrot Bliss on FB at https://www.facebook.com/ParrotBliss 

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WEBSITE

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MOST COMMON QUESTIONS

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YOUTUBE

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The Best 3, FREE Parrot Toys You Already Have At Home

Free, Natural Toys

Is there anything better than a #parrot_toy that can be free AND that your #parrot will love?

Here are 3 toys that almost all of my parrots LOVE (or everyone loves at least one of these):

1) Natural egg carton

2) Brown, cardboard box

3) Brown paper bag

Parrot toys can be dangerous for your parrot. Some metal parts, cotton fibers and nylon threads can go so far as to be lethal to your bird. I can never figure out why toys are made this way…

These three, DIY (although there is nothing to do other than check for any other materials (sticker labels, clear tape or anything else you don’t want your parrot to have) are nice because they are made of natural materials and that makes them worry-free toys. And, I’m guessing that like my parrots, your parrots will love them!

 

Have a questions about parrots?

As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!

Comment below, in my site (link below) or on the FB/Instagram messenger.

BOOK

Get my book Parrot Bliss Bond at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998010065?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

TINK’S (CBD) OIL

CBD oil for parrots! Help de-stress your parrot’s plucking, anxiety or pain and support a healthy immune system at ParrotBliss.com which takes you to https://shop.petlife.zone/product/tinks-parrot-relief/

FACEBOOK

Join Parrot Bliss on FB at https://www.facebook.com/ParrotBliss 

Join the flock on FB! https://www.facebook.com/groups/pbflock/

WEBSITE

Visit my site at https://parrotbliss.com/

YOUTUBE

https://www.youtube.com/parrotbliss

How Much Time Should Your Parrot Be Out Of Its Cage?

Cages can be jails for parrots or wonderful homes.

A “cage-bound” parrot is one that has not been allowed out of their cage and now they are so used to being in their cage, that they don’t want to come out. They are too afraid.

One problem is that most cages are too small for your parrot to spread it’s wings and flap them vigorously. That’s a great exercise for young parrots that are learning to fly. Parrots that know how to fly should – at the very least – have the room to spread their wings. Sadly, that’s not always the case.

Giving your parrot time out of their cage is meant to give them time to engage, time to exercise and time to explore their world.

At my best, even though I work from home, don’t really travel and spend most of my time taking care of my parrots, I can’t give any one of my parrots a reliable amount of time every day. This is because different things come up and need to be taken care of. Sure, in general you can spend time with your parrot, maybe even several hours a day. 

Parrots live in flocks of 20 to thousands, depending on the species. There are a few species that are exceptions, but most are accustomed to being with their flock, of close enough to hear them squawking, all night and day.

For us, as people, we think of our time in bed as time that would not spent with our parrot – and it can be dangerous to our parrot to sleep with them (people accidentally roll onto them and they suffocate). However, in the wild (depending on the species) and even in captivity, I find that a lot of parrots sleep right next to their mate.

Next, we run around getting ready for work or the day. If we go to work, we’re gone all day. This isn’t fair to a parrot that can’t understand why his/her mate is gone all night and then during the day too.

Parrots fly around during the day in the wild. This means that they are actively moving around, looking for food and staying with their flock.

Staying in a cage with nothing to do might be like putting Einstein in your attic with no connection and nothing to do.

How Much Time?

A parrot’s size, species, cage limitations and individual personality should all be factored in when deciding how much time your parrot needs out. The more time you can give them, the better.

Here are some things to consider:

Small Parrots

Small parrots have faster metabolisms. While they are more likely to be able to stretch their wings in their cage, if it isn’t too small, they have a lot of energy to burn. They like flying around a lot!

Large Parrots

While larger parrots, like larger Conures or Amazons, aren’t necessarily as active, they do fly but they need larger spaces in which to fly. My Mac’Girls (Macaws) open their wings to fly and they are already half way across the room it seems! They can fly for miles in the wild. Providing that kind of space to exercise is certainly challenging, I know. Free flying your parrot may allow them the space; otherwise, it is something to take into account when you are choosing a parrot. Large parrots really need more space than most houses can provide, but at least room to spread their wings and move is important — even if they don’t fly all day long.

Cage Size

If you are able to offer your parrot an aviary that allows them to jump around or fly, they may not need the same amount of time outside of their cage that most other parrots require.

Otherwise, letting your parrot out to go to their favorite place or to fly some is important. It is also important for them to have a space in your family’s home that is a ‘family room’ where the whole ‘flock’ comes together. In other words, you may have a bedroom to sleep in that is yours, just like your parrot has a cage, but a den or living room is a room you should enjoy together. This doesn’t necessarily mean that you are meant to spend all of your time paying attention to them. They don’t always pay attention to each other in the wild. It does, however, mean that you are sharing your lives together, as a flock. You are doing your thing, they are doing their’s, together.

Sure, you also want to spend some time engaging with your parrot – after all, that’s why you have a parrot. To bond with them and enjoy them. You just need to find the right balance for you both as to how much time needs to be spent engaging versus just being in the same ‘jungle!’

Individual Parrot Needs

The last factor is your parrot him or herself. Every parrot is unique. While some species are more energetic and active than others, there is also some variation within individuals of the same species.

Some parrots like to have more time and attention; others like to hang out and do their own thing. For example, my Cockatiel is not a typical Cockatiel. Generally speaking, they love to bond and be petted. However, not my LunaLove. She wants to be with me and around me, hang out on my shoulder — but not touched! If I try to pet her, she’ll give me a warning bite! She’s not the only one who is like that either. 

In other words, each parrot has it’s own characteristics and preferences. 

It is important to become aware of what your parrot needs to stay healthy and happy. I find that my parrots can accommodate my busy schedule because they have another mate of their species. It has never kept me from bonding with one or both of them, but it does add to the flock feel and, clearly, to their well-being.

Just like us, the more a parrot can be out of their cage playing, exploring and being with the flock (human and parrot) the happier and healthier they will be.


Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
Comment below, in my site (link below) or on the FB/Instagram messenger.

BOOK
Get my book Parrot Bliss Bond at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998010065?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

TINK’S (CBD) OIL
CBD oil for parrots! Help de-stress your parrot’s plucking, anxiety or pain and support a healthy immune system at ParrotBliss.com which takes you to https://shop.petlife.zone/product/tinks-parrot-relief/

FACEBOOK
Join Parrot Bliss on FB at https://www.facebook.com/ParrotBliss
Join the flock on FB! https://www.facebook.com/groups/pbflock/

WEBSITE
Visit my site at https://parrotbliss.com/

YOUTUBE
https://www.youtube.com/parrotbliss

Like Romeo & Juliet: 3 Rules To Mixing 🦜Parrot Species

I’ve had several requests for information on how to -if you can – put different parrot species together and have them be housemates-

So, here’s 3 basic rules to live by:

1 Same Species Tend To Get Along

Two of the same species tends to be safe. Two Green-cheeked Conures or Parrotlets want to be in a flock and the best flock is their own species. So getting a second parrot of the same species usually works and makes them happy.

2 Depends on the species

Some species have characteristics that tend to make them better or worse at getting along with others. For example, I find that Caiques don’t play well with other species! Neither do Indian Ringnecks – for the most part. In my flock, that tends to spell trouble.

Golden Conures, on the other hand, or Hanh’s Macaws tend to get along with other parrots — or at least not create conflict. They are friendly and do well around other parrots whether they befriend them or just co-exist around them.

3 It Depends On Each Individual Parrot’s Personality

Then you have the fact that every parrot is different. Green-cheeked Conures (GCC) seem to be great examples of this: it seems common to have a GCC that is aggressive, they often think they are larger than they are. It also seems common to have one that defers and is more of a ‘team player’ than a one-bird force to be ‘reccond with! In either case, GCC are very social and create deep bonds. Sometimes it can be with a parrot of another species but other times their instinct seems to be to hurt the other species.

It just depends on the individual parrot’s personality.

Predicting how your parrot will get along with a potential new parrot is a gamble. The odds are more so in your favor when you get the same species of parrot. Sometimes it doesn’t matter, parrots can form deep bonds with another species as well when they, like Romeo & Juliet, fall in love.

A Romeo & Juliet bond can be immediate and pronounced, whether the parrots are of the same species or not. Similarly, a dangerous and perilous relationship can also form with parrots of the same species or not. The most important thing to do is watch your parrots carefully and closely to ensure their safety, security and happiness as much as possible.

Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
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Parrots & Toothbrushes: What To Do When They Freak Out!

Toothbrush Terror: Parrots Beware!

Say it aint so!
Toothbrushes, they are filled with bristles, they are colorful and terribly scary!

Why can a toothbrush scare your parrot, so much so that he/she is then scared of you because you were holding the toothbrush? Who knows? Sometimes parrots seem to fear snake-like shapes, maybe it looks dangerous to them.

Hairbrush? Toothbrush? Or Another Parrot Panic-cause

So, what do you do?
Well, when Abby, my daughter’s Green-cheeked Conure got scared by her toothbrush, she allowed Abby to play with it and step on it. This allowed Abby to ‘conquer’ the toothbrush and find that there really was nothing to fear.

My daughter says that the toothbrush did cause Abby to take a step backwards in his training, but she also said that this happens all of the time. Different odd things happen which then take them back to square 1 in their training, but everything goes forward faster.

If you are comfortable with it, how about drilling a hole in a clean toothbrush and hanging it like a toy in your parrot’s cage? Watch to see that your parrot plays with it and isn’t just scared. Also make sure that your parrot isn’t biting off plastic or bristles and eating these. Generally I choose wood toys or toys made out of other natural materials for my parrots, but they do love stealing plastics to bite and chew up. So, if you keep an eye on the toothbrush, it might make a wonderful parrot’s toy.

Parrots perceive the world differently than we do. Part of their perception is based on instinctual survival fears, such as snake-like objects. If you are making progress with your parrot but it then takes a step back, don’t be discouraged. Enjoy the process and enjoy the bonding that you have developed in training your parrot. Parrots are amazing, wonderful creatures. They have a lot to offer when you spend the time creating a relationship – though talking, teaching them tricks, taking care of them (like feeding them or misting them to offer a shower) and being with them. They are wonderful companions who will come to know you well, anticipate what you are doing and even become comfortable with your toothbrush!


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As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!

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Can You Put Different Species Of Parrots Together?

Why Do We All Want To Put Different Species Of Parrots Together????

Because there are SO many AWESOME parrots!

 

Can you do so? Is there a “right” way to do it?

Yes and yes –

A couple of way and things you want to keep in mind:

  • Age
  • Cage
  • Flight
  • Also consider having 2 of the same species

AGE

It is easier to mix species when they are young. If they are hand-fed together or are put together when they are young, then they recognize each-other as ‘flock.’  They will be close, treat each other well – generally speaking – and enjoy each other’s company.

CAGE

While every parrot is unique and it’s really more about personalities, generally speaking, I think it is best NOT to mix species in a cage. Every bird should have their own home, their own safe space and, in case they have different diets, their own food and water.

Mixing species is probably best done in “neutral” parts of your home so that there are no territory wars or threats.

FLIGHT

We like to keep our parrots flighted as much as possible. One reason for this is that, especially smaller parrots, should be able to fly away from any danger they perceive. Sometimes the threat could come from another parrot, but it could also be another household pet or something that’s been knocked over.

Mixing parrot species, for me, means keeping as safe an environment as possible but also making sure that my parrots can feel as safe as possible.

2 OF THE SAME SPECIES

Even though we do have a mix of species, we still strive to have at least 2 of each species of parrot. Again, there are always exceptions, but I’ve observed that parrots of the same species relate to each other differently than they do to other species, even when they are close to the other species.

An example of this is our Lovebird, Nassy (short for Nassau). Nassy loves to be in the bird room with the larger parrots. I have my eye out for a companion for him because I noticed that he wants a buddy. Although he has a couple other, bigger friends, it isn’t the same for him. He tried to befriend a Parrotlet or two, I think because they were his same size, but the Parrotlet didn’t know how to relate to him.

When two parrots of the same species are together they relate to each other in ways that amaze me. They play, bicker, preen and talk to each other in a unique way that I think is important for their well-being.

This is why we have different species but also try to have two of each. Parrots are amazing and wonderful; I love seeing the differences in the species personalities – and seeing all their colors and ways.

Safely mix your species and enjoy your colorful flock!


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As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!

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Signs That My Cockatiel Isn’t Feeling Well

Don’t Miss Your Parrot’s Signs Of Illness

One of the hardest things for me is missing the signs that something is wrong with my parrot because when parrots get sick, they fall quickly! Fortunately, I’m getting better at catching the subtle – and not so subtle- signs.

In this video, I’ll point out several signs that Lunalove, my Cockatiel parrot, isn’t feeling well.

These include behaviors that are out of the norm for her, like not seeking out her parrot-friend, Tikko, and ‘hiding.’

Lunalove went into the Mac’Girl’s cage (the Macaw’s) while they were out. She was huddling in the corner, the way you and I might crawl into bed or our bedroom to have some quiet time in a darker space that lets us rest.

Lunalove’s eyes look heavy, sleepy.

She’s also fluffed up – you can see her chest feathers are pretty puffy.

Monitor Carefully, They Change Quickly

Fortunately, she’s eating: I feel good about that. She’s being treated, so I expect her to start to look better in a day or so.

Tomorrow I will see a behavioral change- either she will be more of her ‘normal self’ or she’ll be more withdrawn and I’ll know if all is well or if I need to re-visit her treatment with the avian vet.

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2 Things That Reduced Veterinarian Visits For Me This Spring

Spring: It Springs Babies & Bacteria!

A couple weeks ago I had to go to the avian veterinarian – I realized that it seems like I go more during the spring. I asked if they had more clients in the spring and they said that they do. In addition to parrot hormones being more active, some bacteria may become more active too. That’s our working theory anyway.

Then I Realized I’d Been Less Often This Spring

What changed? Because last spring I’d had to go almost once a month for several months; each time was a different parrot. This spring, on the other hand, I’d only gone twice and it wasn’t for ‘no reason’ – the birds hadn’t gotten sick for no reason.

So, What Changes Reduced My Visits?

Water Treatment

Parrots have delicate systems. As you probably know, they are very sensitive to smells/scents. You cannot use bleach, scented candles, perfume…  or smoke around them. It will damage their delicate respiratory system – and probably damage it severely. Unfortunately, it can kill them as well, which is why you must be cautious with them around your kitchen (the wrong burning pots can create toxic smoke and kill your parrot).

The same is true of their water. Sure, it’s obvious that old, dirty water or an un-washed water dishes can breed germs that will make your parrot sick. But, even clean dishes need to have the correct clean water in them! Tap water that you and I can drink, usually city water, has fluoride and bleach in it to help your teeth and to keep the water bacteria-free. However, some bacteria that don’t bother you and I can make it past the bleach, can get your parrot sick. As far as the bleach and fluoride go, I don’t know whether it has ill effects on parrots, but I don’t want my fids (feathered kids) drinking it…

So, we boil water every day for our parrots. You could buy bottled water too; I’m a larger fan of glass than I am of plastic and we use around 5 liters a day, so boiling is easier and more economical. In case you are wondering why we use so much water, it’s because we put multiple water dishes in the Parrotlet aviary, the Macaw’s bowls are big and we re-fill waters that get dirty during the day. We also use this water to fill the spray bottle and for a large dog dish in case a parrot is out back and wants water or a bath.

There are breeders who use reverse osmosis and heavy filters for their parrot’s water. Yes, that is how important some people have found clean water to be.

No-Mess Feeders

The second change was the no-mess feeders (you can click HERE to see it on Amazon). These are plexiglass squares with hanging hooks that help keep my parrot’s pellets from being scratch out of the dish too much and they also keep poop from landing in the feeder.

I used to fill my parrot’s dishes with pellets and sometimes they were pooped in five minutes later. If I was out of the house, this would mean that bacteria would be in the bowl and spreading so that when my parrot would eat from the clean side of the dish, they still could be eating contaminated food.

Yuck.

These feeders are also great because they hold my parrot’s food so that, even if my parrots dig in there, the food doesn’t come out and make a mess on my floor, leaving them with nothing to eat.

Parrot Health Has A Lot To Do With Cleanliness:

I hope your parrot has few to no issues and that he or she doesn’t have to go to the avian veterinarian much. Keeping your parrot on a 70% pelleted diet, 30% fresh vegetables and giving them clean pellets and clean water will make your parrot happy (because sick parrots are grumpy and unhappy, just like we are when we don’t feel good) and keep your wallet happy because it will save you money. Most importantly, it will keep you happy and feeling blissful with your parrot because you’ll enjoy not going to the avian vet and not having problems with your parrot’s beak, feathers, bones….

A healthy parrot will be more loving, have more beautiful feathers and be a better companion for you!


Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!

BOOK
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