Common Questions
& Answers

Reach out to me directly by phone, text, or email. Once we've had a chance to talk and find the right match for you, I'll send over my contract. A signed contract and your deposit together hold your baby. Nothing is reserved without both.

The deposit amount depends on the species — reach out and I'll let you know the deposit for the bird you're interested in.

Deposits are non-refundable unless Parrot Bliss is unable to provide the bird you reserved. If you need to cancel, I do my best to work with you, but I cannot guarantee a refund. Your deposit has held the bird and I may have turned away other buyers during that time. Life happens, and I understand that — reach out and we can talk through the situation together.

Yes. I take deposits on unhatched clutches regularly, especially for species with longer waiting lists. Keep in mind that hatch dates, sexes, and color outcomes are never guaranteed. I'll keep you updated throughout the process with photos and progress once babies arrive.

For deposits and balances I accept Zelle, Apple Pay, or cash. I do not accept credit cards.

The remaining balance is due at pickup (when picking up locally), or before your bird's shipping is arranged. I'll reach out about a week beforehand to confirm the details and coordinate timing with you.

Yes, always. My contract protects both of us. It spells out the deposit terms, the health guarantee, and each person's responsibilities. If a breeder refuses to put anything in writing, that is a major red flag — walk away.

Prices are not negotiable. What you see is what it costs to raise a healthy, hand-fed, well-socialized baby. I don't cut corners on diet, veterinary care, or the time it takes to properly hand-raise each bird. My prices reflect that.

I don't offer payment plans beyond the standard deposit-and-balance structure. The full balance is due when your bird is ready to go home.

In some cases, babies reserved very early in the weaning process may qualify for a small discount. It depends on the species and how early in the process you're committing. Reach out and ask — I'm happy to discuss it.

I ship through Delta Cargo using their live animal pet transport program. Delta is one of the safest and most reliable carriers for birds. Your baby travels in a temperature-controlled cargo hold — not the passenger cabin — which is actually more stable for them during the flight. The parrot must be picked up at a major airport Delta Cargo ships to.

Shipping is $250. That covers the airline fee, the USDA-compliant crate, and all food and supplies for the journey. I don't add markups — that's the actual cost.

No. Delta Cargo does not accept live bird shipments to Hawaii or Alaska due to agricultural restrictions and the length of the journey. If you're in Hawaii or Alaska, reach out and we'll see if we can work out an alternative arrangement.

I ship from Palm Beach International Airport (PBI) and Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport (FLL). Your baby will arrive at a Delta Cargo facility near you, and you'll pick up directly at that facility — not at the passenger terminal.

I only ship when conditions are right — appropriate temperature ranges at both origin and destination, and no extreme weather in the forecast. If there's a weather hold or a flight issue, I'll reschedule rather than risk your baby. In the rare event of a problem during transport, we figure it out together. I don't send out a bird and disappear.

Yes, and I always prefer it when it's an option. Local pickup means you get to meet your baby in person, ask me questions face to face, and skip the stress of shipping altogether. West Palm Beach, Florida is where we're located. Reach out to schedule a time.

For shipping, at least a week. For local pickup, a few days' notice is usually fine once your baby is fully weaned.

No. I will not ship a bird during heat advisories, cold snaps, or significant weather events at either the origin or destination city. Bird safety comes before convenience or timeline. We'll coordinate to find the right weather window.

It depends on the species. Every baby is an individual, so these are ranges, not exact dates:

I'll let you know when your specific baby is on track and what the timeline looks like.

Fully weaned means your baby is eating entirely on their own with no formula. They're eating a variety of solid foods independently and no longer need hand-feeding at all. This is the point when it's safe for them to move to a new home and begin adjusting without the disruption of an incomplete weaning process.

No, and I won't. Rushing weaning is harmful to the bird. Babies that are pulled too early are more likely to have health problems, behavioral issues, and difficulty adjusting to a new home. The timeline is set by the bird, not a calendar. I will let you know when your baby is truly ready.

Yes, if you're local to West Palm Beach. I enjoy when buyers visit during the hand-feeding period. Seeing your baby a few times before it comes home is good for both of you. Just let me know in advance so I can work around our feeding schedule.

Each baby comes with a 3 to 5-day health guarantee (5 on weekends) from the date of pickup or delivery. Within that window, if a licensed avian veterinarian diagnoses your new baby with a pre-existing condition that was not disclosed at the time of sale, I will work with you on a replacement or refund depending on the situation. The guarantee requires that you take your bird to an avian vet within that window.

Yes, and not just any vet. The visit must be with an avian-certified veterinarian or a vet with documented, extensive bird experience. A general practice vet who sees a few birds a year may miss problems or misdiagnose them. I recommend finding your avian vet before your bird comes home so you're not scrambling after the fact.

The Association of Avian Veterinarians (AAV) has a vet finder at aav.org. You can also search for "board-certified avian veterinarian" in your city. When you call, ask how many bird patients they see per week. A vet who sees a handful of birds per year is not the same as one who specializes. A good avian vet is one of the most important things you can set up before your bird comes home.

The guarantee covers pre-existing conditions diagnosed by an avian vet within the guarantee window — conditions that were present before the bird left my care. It does not cover injuries that happen after pickup, illness caused by exposure to other birds in your home, environmental factors, or failure to follow dietary and care recommendations.

The guarantee does not cover:

• Injuries that occur after pickup or delivery
• Illness resulting from exposure to your other pets or wild birds
• Problems caused by improper diet or care
• Psychological stress during the adjustment period (normal and expected, not a health condition)
• Any issues that arise after the guarantee window

If you have concerns after that window, call me anyway. I always want to know how my babies are doing.

Watch for these and call your avian vet if you see them:

• Fluffed feathers when the bird is not cold or sleeping
• Sleeping during active daytime hours, especially sitting on the cage floor
• Complete refusal to eat or drink after 48 hours
• Discharge from the eyes or nares (nostrils)
• Labored or audible breathing
• Loose, discolored droppings that persist beyond 24 hours

Some nervousness, lighter eating the first day, and extra sleeping are normal adjustment behaviors. Physical symptoms are not. When in doubt, call your vet.

Always. I want to hear how your bird is doing, whether it's a quick photo or a real question you need help with. I'm not the kind of breeder who disappears after a sale. Reach out any time. I can't diagnose illness or replace your vet's judgment, but I can help you figure out whether something warrants a vet call.

The rule I use: your bird's wingspan should not touch the sides of the cage when they spread their wings fully inside it. These are minimums — bigger is always better:

The cage is where they spend time when you're not home or can't supervise. Don't shortchange it.

Bar spacing is a safety issue. Too wide and a bird can stick their head through and get trapped. General guidelines:

• Small species (conures, caiques): 3/4" to 1" spacing
• Medium species (greys, amazons, eclectus): 1" to 1-1/4" spacing
• Large macaws and cockatoos: 1-1/2" to 2" spacing

Confirm the bar spacing before purchasing a cage — it's one of the most common setup mistakes.

In a room where the family spends time, but away from the kitchen. Kitchen fumes — especially from non-stick (PTFE/Teflon) cookware — are toxic to birds. Even burning toast or a hot empty non-stick pan can release fumes that can kill a bird quickly. Good air circulation is important, but so is avoiding direct drafts from air conditioning vents blowing right onto the cage.

I'm not a veterinarian, so for specific questions about household toxins, I'd always recommend confirming with your avian vet.

Keep these away from your bird entirely:

• Avocado
• Chocolate and caffeine
• Alcohol
• Onion and garlic
• Apple seeds and cherry pits
• Raw rhubarb
• Most mushroom varieties
• Very salty or very fatty human foods

When in doubt, don't offer it. I'm not a veterinarian or avian nutritionist, so if you have a question about a specific food, ask your avian vet directly.

Parrots need roughly 10 to 12 hours of darkness each night to maintain healthy sleep cycles, hormonal balance, and immune function. Cover the cage at night with a breathable cage cover. Natural light is great during the day, but don't place the cage in direct sun without access to shade — they can overheat. A consistent light schedule (same time each day) helps regulate their biology.

Variety is key. Natural wood perches of varying diameters are best because the variation exercises the foot muscles and helps prevent arthritis over time. Manzanita, Java wood, and other hardwoods work well. Rope perches add texture and movement. Avoid concrete or rough-textured perches as the primary perch — they cause abrasion on foot pads. Make sure the perch diameter is appropriate for your bird's foot size.

Yes. Have a few toys in the cage when your bird arrives — not so many it's overwhelming, but enough to explore. Rotate toys every week or two to keep things interesting. Foraging toys that hide food are especially good for keeping parrots mentally engaged. Ask me what your specific baby responded to during socialization and I'll tell you what they seemed to enjoy.

Most parrots are comfortable in the same range humans are — 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid sudden temperature drops and drafts. Birds don't regulate body temperature well when cold, so if your home gets below 60 degrees at night, cover the cage and watch for signs of chilling (fluffed feathers, lethargy). Consistent is better than perfect.

Biting is communication. Parrots can't use words when they're overstimulated, scared, or done with an interaction, so they bite. Learn your bird's body language first: pinning eyes, raised feathers along the neck, leaning away, a quick tail flick. Those are "I'm done" signals that come before the bite. If you see them and stop, the bite doesn't happen. Don't punish biting — just put the bird down calmly and give them space. They'll learn you hear them.

First, decide whether it's contact calling (checking in, expecting a brief response) or demand screaming (learned behavior that gets you running). Contact calls are normal and manageable with consistent responses. Demand screaming usually develops when a bird has learned that screaming brings you immediately. The fix: return on your terms, not theirs. Reward quiet with attention and treats. If screaming gets suddenly worse after a calm period, rule out a health issue first before assuming it's behavioral.

Welcome to hormonal season. Most parrots go through hormonal cycles starting between 2 and 5 years of age depending on the species, and it often catches people off guard. Birds that were gentle become nippy, cage-territorial, and moody. During this time: head scratches only (no petting on the back or under the wings, which can be stimulating), reduce nesting opportunities like dark corners and low enclosed spaces, and keep the routine consistent. It passes. Work with your avian vet if it becomes unmanageable.

That depends entirely on the species, and I'll be honest with you about it rather than tell you what you want to hear:

• African Greys: Exceptional talkers. Often develop large, clear vocabularies and use words contextually.
• Amazons: Strong talkers with enthusiasm and clarity.
• Eclectus: Can learn many words but are more reserved about it.
• Macaws: Can talk but typically have smaller vocabularies and sometimes less clarity.
• Cockatoos: Often prefer whistles, songs, and vocalizations over human words.
• Caiques and Conures: Talk least consistently — they're more about personality, play, and noise than speech.

No bird is guaranteed to talk, and the ones that do talk on their own schedule. Never choose a species primarily because you want a talking bird.

Nothing is wrong. This is the most common thing new owners tell me in the first week. Your bird is reading its new environment and deciding what's safe before it shows you who it is. The outgoing, curious personality you saw with me will come back — give it time and consistency. A bird that's appropriately cautious in a brand-new place is actually healthy and aware, not a problem.

Feather destructive behavior has many possible causes: boredom, insufficient mental stimulation, skin irritation or infection, nutritional deficiency, hormonal issues, or psychological stress. It is always worth a veterinary visit to rule out medical causes before assuming it's behavioral. I'm not a vet and can't diagnose it, but I can tell you that it's more common in highly intelligent, active species like African Greys and Cockatoos when their environment and social needs aren't being met. Enrichment, routine, and diet are the starting points to look at.