Bare-eyed Cockatoo
The clownish, manageable white cockatoo with the unmistakable blue eye-mask.
Origin
Australia (widespread across northern, western, and central regions)
Lifespan
40–60 years
With proper nutrition & care
Size
13–15 inches
300–500 g
Quick Facts
| Origin | Australia (widespread across northern, western, and central regions) |
|---|---|
| Size | 13–15 inches |
| Weight | 300–500 g |
| Lifespan | 40–60 years |
| Care level | Intermediate |
| Noise level | High |
| Talking ability | Moderate |
| Beginner-friendly | 5/10 |
The Bird
Bare-eyed Cockatoo at a Glance
The Bare-Eyed Cockatoo (Cacatua sanguinea), also known as the Little Corella, is one of Australia's most widespread and adaptable parrots. Native to the northern, western, and central regions of the continent, this medium-sized white cockatoo is instantly recognisable by the broad patch of bare blue skin encircling each eye and the soft pink-red lores between eye and beak. Listed on CITES Appendix II, it remains common in the wild and is increasingly sought after as a companion bird outside Australia.
At 13 to 15 inches and 300 to 500 grams, the Bare-Eyed sits comfortably between the smaller Goffin's and the larger Umbrellas and Moluccans. Its small, forward-swept crest is far less dramatic than that of its bigger cousins, and the prominent bare orbital ring gives it a permanently surprised, slightly comical expression. That look matches the temperament rather neatly — these are clownish, good-natured birds with an irrepressible streak of mischief.
Here in West Palm Beach, I have come to think of the Bare-Eyed as the most accessible of the white cockatoos. They are still very much a cockatoo — loud, intelligent, and emotionally demanding — but they tend to be less overwhelming than a Moluccan or a Greater Sulphur-Crested. For families who are serious about cockatoo ownership but not yet ready for the most intense species, this is often the right place to start.
Bare-Eyed Cockatoos are playful, inquisitive, and almost relentlessly social. They form strong pair-style bonds with their humans, but in my experience their attachment is a touch less smothering than that of the larger white cockatoos. They want to be near you, on you, and involved in whatever you are doing — yet they are usually more willing to entertain themselves for short stretches if their environment is enriched.
Their clownish streak is the trait that defines them. Mine will hang upside down from a play-stand for no apparent reason, invent games with bottle caps, and wander the floor like a tiny, feathered dog inspecting everything. They have a sense of humour that owners of Goffin's Cockatoos will recognise, paired with the bigger emotional presence of a true white cockatoo.
That said, they are still cockatoos, and they will scream, demand, and chew when their needs are not met. Boredom is the enemy. A Bare-Eyed left alone in a small cage with no rotation of toys will become noisy, destructive, and prone to feather-destructive behaviour. With consistent routine, plenty of foraging, and respectful handling, they settle into wonderfully well-adjusted companions.
Vocalization & Talking
Bare-Eyed Cockatoos are loud. There is no honest way around that. They have the classic cockatoo screech — piercing, carrying, and used liberally at sunrise and sunset. In a apartment or a shared wall situation, this species is almost always the wrong choice. A detached home with tolerant neighbours is the realistic minimum.
That said, their daily volume is generally a step below that of a Moluccan or Umbrella. Most well-adjusted Bare-Eyeds confine their loudest contact calls to short bursts in the morning and evening, with chatter, mimicry, and softer mutterings filling the rest of the day. Owners who structure flock-call routines and cover the cage at consistent times tend to report much more manageable noise.
On the talking side, they are surprisingly capable for a cockatoo. I rate them around a 5 out of 10 — not in the league of an African Grey or an Amazon, but reliably picking up a handful of words, household phrases, and a rather impressive collection of whistles, microwave beeps, and laughter imitations. Many become genuine conversationalists with their favourite person.
Diet
A high-quality formulated pellet should make up roughly 60 to 70 per cent of the daily diet. I rotate Harrison's, TOPs, and Roudybush in my own aviary and recommend the same for new owners — each brand has a slightly different nutritional profile, and varying them helps avoid both fussiness and subtle deficiencies. Pellets give a stable nutritional baseline that a seed-heavy diet simply cannot.
The remaining 30 to 40 per cent should be fresh produce — dark leafy greens, broccoli, capsicum, carrot, sweet potato, squash, and modest amounts of fruit such as apple, berries, and papaya. Cooked whole grains, legumes, and sprouted seed are excellent additions. Like all cockatoos, Bare-Eyeds are prone to obesity and fatty liver disease, so fat restriction matters; nuts and high-fat seeds should be reserved as small training rewards rather than dietary staples.
Avoid the classic toxins — avocado, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, onion, and anything heavily salted. Fresh water should be changed at least twice daily, and food bowls scrubbed every day. A Bare-Eyed eating a varied, pellet-based diet with plenty of vegetables tends to be visibly brighter, with cleaner feathers and steadier weight, than one kept on a seed mix.
Health & Lifespan
Bare-Eyed Cockatoos are generally hardy when housed and fed well, but they share the species-wide vulnerabilities of the white cockatoos. An annual examination with an avian-certified vet, ideally one recognised by the Association of Avian Veterinarians, is the single best preventive measure an owner can take.
- Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD): a viral disease causing feather loss and beak deformity; testing is recommended, particularly for younger birds.
- Feather-destructive behaviour: less common than in Moluccans or Umbrellas, but still present, usually rooted in boredom, isolation, or hormonal stress.
- Psittacosis (Chlamydia psittaci): a zoonotic bacterial infection that can present as respiratory or systemic illness; routine screening is sensible.
- Aspergillosis: a fungal respiratory disease driven by poor ventilation, damp bedding, or mouldy food; HEPA filtration and rigorous hygiene are protective.
- Fatty liver disease (hepatic lipidosis): directly linked to high-fat, seed-heavy diets and inadequate exercise; the most preventable serious illness in this species.
Any change in droppings, posture, appetite, or vocalisation warrants a same-week appointment with an avian vet. For locating a qualified clinician, I direct new owners to the Association of Avian Veterinarians, which maintains a searchable directory of certified practitioners worldwide.
Housing
The absolute minimum cage footprint for a Bare-Eyed Cockatoo is 24 by 24 by 36 inches, with bar spacing of 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch. In practice I recommend going larger wherever possible — a 30 by 30 base or a flight cage gives this active, climbing species room to actually move. Bars must be heavy-gauge stainless steel; this is a serious chewer, and decorative or powder-coated cages do not last.
Out-of-cage time is non-negotiable. A minimum of three hours daily on a play-stand, perch tree, or supervised free-roam area is required for behavioural and physical health, and most well-kept Bare-Eyeds get considerably more. Provide a constant rotation of destructible foraging toys — softwood, palm, vine, cardboard, and untreated leather — and accept that replacing them is part of the cost of keeping the species.
Air quality matters more than most new owners realise. Cockatoos produce a fine white powder-down, and a HEPA air filter running continuously near the cage protects both the bird's respiratory system and your household. Keep the cage out of direct sun and draughts, maintain a consistent 10 to 12 hour sleep cycle in a quiet, darkened room, and never house a parrot in the kitchen, where non-stick cookware fumes can be rapidly fatal.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Is a Bare-Eyed Cockatoo a good first cockatoo?
It is the most accessible of the white cockatoos, but still not a true beginner bird. I place Bare-Eyeds with owners who have kept smaller parrots successfully and want to step up to a cockatoo without taking on the full intensity of a Moluccan or Greater Sulphur-Crested. Expect noise, mess, and a serious daily time commitment.
- How loud is a Bare-Eyed compared with other cockatoos?
Loud, but generally a step below a Moluccan or Umbrella. They have the classic piercing cockatoo screech, used most heavily at dawn and dusk, with chatter and mimicry filling the rest of the day. Apartments and shared-wall homes are not suitable; a detached house with tolerant neighbours is the realistic minimum.
- How long do Bare-Eyed Cockatoos live?
Forty to sixty years with proper diet, housing, and veterinary care. This is a multi-decade commitment, and many birds will outlive their original owner, so sensible long-term planning — including a written care plan — is part of responsible ownership.
- What should I feed a Bare-Eyed Cockatoo?
Sixty to seventy per cent high-quality pellets — I rotate Harrison's, TOPs, and Roudybush — with the remainder coming from fresh vegetables, leafy greens, modest fruit, cooked grains, and sprouted legumes. Keep nuts and high-fat seeds as training rewards only, as this species is genuinely prone to obesity and fatty liver disease.
- Do Bare-Eyed Cockatoos talk?
Yes, more readily than many people expect. They are not in the class of an African Grey, but a well-socialised Bare-Eyed will typically build a vocabulary of household words and phrases alongside an enthusiastic repertoire of whistles and sound effects. Expect a respectable rather than remarkable talker.