Detoxifying FLD In Parrots: Can FLD Be Cured?

Dealing With FLD (Fatty Liver Disease) In Your Parrot

Are you trying to deal with FLD in your parrot? Here’s some of my experience and what my research conclusions.
In this blog:

  1. My FB Post – My update on Lorenza, my Yellow-naped Amazon with FLD (Fatty Liver Disease)
  2. Responses I received on FB
  3. Some Significant Findings
  4. My Conclusions & My Parrot’s Diet

 

1 My FB Post, An Update

The Lorenza Update:

Diet seems to really be helping her. When I first got her, she was slow, lethargic and her feathers were a bit drab.

Now she’s TROUBLE! LOL!
She climbs down her cage, over the poop guard, and down onto the floor. From there she goes where she wants, often to find something to bite at.

She’s peppy, vocal and wants pets! She’s like a real bird- OMG!

I feed her pellets, a few bites of scrambled eggs plus what she’ll eat out of my salad – Mandarin oranges, cranberries, carrots (sometimes)- rice…

She only gets seeds as an occasional treat.

I don’t know whether she can recover from FLD (Fatty Liver Disease) or if it’s permanent. I’ve heard different answers… LMK if you know!

2 And a few responses I received on the post:

Following because I’d like to know also. Beautiful bird! – SB

Me Too! – TZ

WHAT DIET DO YOU HAVE HER ON MY GREY YA WON’T TOUCH ANYTHING – LH

I had a bird pass from fatty liver disease… I’m guessing, since our liver recovers, hers very well may also once removing the high fat from her diet and eating clean. I know milk thistles lowers liver enzymes and flushes the liver in human but I have no idea what it would do for a bird. I also know it’s safe for dogs… you might want to do a little research and see! Blessing to you both!! – TT

3 Some Significant Findings (Source)

Symptoms:

    • The enlarged liver may cause breathing difficulties as the organ compromises the body cavity space.
    • The bird’s abdomen may appear distended, and sometimes the liver is actually visible below the keel.
    • The bird may develop diarrhea, and the droppings may take on a more yellowish or greenish hue due to biliverdin being excreted.
    • Poor feather quality and changes in the feather coloration. In cockatiels, for example, the white feathers may take on a more yellowish color (doesn’t happen in white-faced cockatiels though). African Greys may develop red feathers in areas that are usually grey and feathers in eclectuses may turn yellow, orange and potentially red.
    • Dry itchy skin may also be an indicator of liver problem. Once the liver problems have been resolved, it takes a while for the itching to stop.
    • In some birds, soft areas around the beak occur. Birds may develop overgrown beaks and claws / nails.
    • End-stage liver disease: toxins build up in the bloodstream, resulting in central nervous systems signs, such as disorientation or seizures
  • Bleeding clotting problems may occur. A simple broken blood feather may result in prolonged, life-threatening bleeding

 

Supporting a Healthy Liver through Nutrition and Healthy Lifestyle:

    • Restorative sleep is crucial as it helps promote healing, including helping a liver rebuild itself. Patients (feathered or unfeathered) need extra sleep and plenty of rest to recover.
  • Diet: Your avian vet is likely to recommend changes to your pet’s diet.
    • It is important to change to an ORGANIC diet that is rich in fiber, low in fat and with reduced protein content . The liver should not be burdened with the pesticides that are typically found on conventionally grown produce.
    • The staple diet should consist mainly of fruits and vegetables with a good quality dry food mix (that doesn’t contain any chemicals, artificial flavors or colors). Foods to focus on are those that will help the liver detoxify.
    • Foods and nutrients that aid in the detoxification process include: Magnesium, Vitamin C, foods rich in Vitamin B2, B5, B6, B12, walnuts, cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, asparagus, citrus peel, egg yolks, garlic, red peppers, dark green leafy vegetables, animal protein, whole unprocessed grains, some legumes, and turmeric.Fiber is important for cleansing the intestines of toxins. Encouraging the consumption of fresh fruits and unlimited amounts of fresh vegetables adds fiber and nutrients.
    • Sprouted seeds are an excellent option. Sprouted seeds are lower in fat, as the process of sprouting utilizes the fat stored in the seed to start the growing process – thus reducing the fat stored in the seeds. Also, the texture is more vegetable-like, which may encourage a bird to begin eating veggies. Sprouted or germinated seeds are usually more easily accepted by “seed addicts” than fresh fruits and vegetables.
    • Do not feed peanuts or food items that could contain mycotoxins, which could further damage the liver.
  • Nutritional supplements that support liver function are:
    • It is suspected that there is a correlation between vitamin deficiency and the development of fatty liver disease; and nutritional support is essential for the treatment. The following supplements should be discussed with a holistic vet:
      • Choline, biotin and methionine. Biotin and choline (B vitamins). Choline is essential for fat metabolism. It helps prevent the deposition of fats in the liver, guarding against fatty liver damage. Animals with choline deficiencies have been shown to develop liver damage similar to that induced by alcohol in humans.
        • Foods that are high in choline are egg yolks, brewers yeast, legumes and whole grain cereals.
        • Sources of biotin are nuts, fruits, brewers yeast, and brown rice.
      • Methionine (an amino acid that is essential in transporting fats from cells) – can be found in: eggs, fish, meat and milk. However, do not offer any anything containing lactose, as birds cannot digest this sugar. However, lactose is almost entirely removed in the process of manufacturing of many cheese products, yogurt or cottage cheese, making those items generally safe for consumption by birds. Discuss the diet with your vet.
      • Milk thistle is very good support for a damaged liver. Your avian vet will decide if this is an appropriate therapeutic for your bird. Make sure that any milk thistle supplement does not contain ethyl alcohol as a base, as that can potentially intoxicate a small bird and alcohol can also further damage the liver.
      • Dimethylglycine (DMG) – an antioxidant – is also a good supplement for birds with liver damage.
    • The following supplements will help with detoxifying your birds: 
      The directions provided were (please discuss with your holistic vet):

      For seriously sick birds: mix 50/50 or 60/40 detox / spring water and provide as drinking. Please make sure your pet drinks it or else administer with a feeding syringe. Hydration is vital — so owner need to make sure that the pet takes in sufficient amounts of fluids. Place the water dish very close to where the bird is sitting. Keep the cage in a warm environment. If a bird is dehydrated and unable to drink on its own, use a small dropper or feeding syringe and place a few drops directly into the bird’s beak. Once normal hydration levels have been reached, you should see an improvement in your pet within 15 to 20 minutes. As soon as the bird is drinking on its own, stop administering directly.

      Detoxification in Well Birds: Breeders may provide Aloe Detox to their flock once a week to help with detoxification and maintain their health. Adding a tablespoon or so to two ounces of water will help maintain the health of the flock. Some breeders provide a 50/50 mixture (Aloe Detox / Water) once a week — besides helping with detoxification it also gets them used to drinking it so in case they have problems in the future, they will easily accept . However, if your birds appear to reject the detox, reduce the amount and gradually increase the ratio over a few days. Please note that Aloe Detox does spoil — so it is best to replace it with fresh water after a few hours – particularly on hot days. The manufacturer reports that Aloe Detox needs to be refrigerated (obviously). After opening, it will keep for 7 to 9 months.

      Some bird owners mix Aloe Detox in with juice to get their birds to drink it.

      Fresh gel from the leaves are superior to Aloe Vera gel bought commercially. Bird owners will cut off a small section each day and feed that section to their pet birds. The plant is easy to grow in most areas. It needs, however, to be grown organically — without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides.

      *NOTE: Even though Aloe Vera is helpful for many birds, some rare birds may have a reaction to Aloe Vera. Spray one of your fngers and touch your bird’s foot. Leave for 24 hours and see if an reaction occurs

      • How to Harvest Fresh Aloe Vera Gel – Tips on harvesting aloe vera
      • Aloe Detox – One recommended brand is “Lily of the Desert Aloe Detoxifying Formula.” It is available online as well as at better health food stores, such as Whole Foods. The manufacturer reports that Aloe Detox needs to be refrigerated (obviously). After opening, it will keep for 7 to 9 months.
        • Birds with advanced liver disease that have been given only weeks to live by the vet turned completely around after daily administration of Aloe Detox by the owner. A holistic vet recommended “as much of Aloe Detox” as the owner could get the parrot to drink. In that case, it was 1/2 oz three times a day (it was a larger parrot) – dilution: one part Aloe Detox to three parts water. (Owner used filtered / distilled water). After three weeks, the parrot’s blood work was completely normal and the parrot lived many years afterwards. If a pet doesn’t want to drink it, soaking a pet’s favorite “birdie bread”, whole grain toast, or favorite treat might be a good way to administer it. A vet recommended not to give Aloe Detox for extended periods – only when detoxification is needed; no longer than 3 weeks. If administered in drinking water, some birds who might not like the taste, may stop drinking! Make sure your pet stays sufficiently hydrated. Discuss a treatment program that is right for your pet with your holistic vet.

        One bird owner described her experience with her dying canary. The prescribed medications caused the canary to get worse, rather than better. She researched Aloe Detox and decided to stop any prescribed medication and take the holistic route. She administered Aloe Detox and the canary gradually improved and completely recovered.

      • Herbs that are conducive to maintaining liver health and even reversing existing liver problems are: Psillium Husk Powder, Dandelions and others.
        • Milk thistle is a liver-supportive herb. It’s best to discuss with your vet whether it is appropriate for your pet. It is important to make sure that any milk thistle supplement doesn’t contain ethyl alcohol as a base, as alcohol can further damage the liver.
        • Alpha-Lipoic Acid has been used successfully for the maintenance of liver health and as a treatment for several toxin-related illnesses. ALA has been used extensively in Europe for years as a non-toxic nutrient to treat toxic conditions such as mushroom poisoning, diabetic neuropathy, and elevated liver enzymes. Another benefit of Alpha-Lipoic acid may be its ability to elevate the levels of glutathione (GSH).
      • Conjugated linoleic acid (CLA) reduces the body’s ability to store fat, while promoting the use of stored fat for energy. Cattle and chickens that are fed grain, rather than allowed to feed in pastures, are low in CLA, which has caused a dramatic reduction in the amount of available CLA in the American diet in recent years.
        • Sources: Eggs, meat and dairy products. Note: Meat from grass-fed animals contain much higher levels of CLA than meat coming from grain-fed animals.

4 My Conclusions & My Parrot’s Diet

I’ve had several people ask what I feed Lorenza (YNA), since she is doing better and better.

Our veterinarian, Dr. Susan Clubb, diagnosed her with FLD (Fatty Liver Disease) around November of 2018.
I don’t know how severe her FLD was (in other words, how far along or how much liver damage). In part, this is because you can only see how the liver is truly doing by taking a biopsy, as I understood from the vet.

The vet perscribed milk thistle, calcium and asked about Lorenza’s diet.

Lorenza’s diet (same as all my parrots, small or large):

  1. Mostly pellets – pellets are always available to them. Pellets are supposed to make up about 2/3 of their daily diet, as per experts.
    My father is a veterinary university professor – he says that companies put tons of research into making healthy pellets. Dr Club agreed that pellets as the ‘main’ food is optimal. (She asked if Lorenza ate pellets, I said yes – I think I got lucky that she does).
  2. 1/3 Fresh food – Mornings are supposed to be best, the birds are hungrier.
    This is supposed to be fresh fruits and veggies. So, the pellets have -basically- everything the bird needs as far as vitamins, minerals and nutrition goes. Still, fresh veggies are good for them – my personal research (for human diets) leads me to understand that a body can not extract the vitamins and minerals from a pill (vitamin or supplement) the way it can from actual fruits and veggies.

    I offer my parrots (daily):
    -Cut spinach, carrots – I try to add a bite of bell pepper and/or a grain (rice, quinoa, oatmeal)
    Or (for variation) – warmed-up frozen veggie mix of peas, carrots & corn

    In addition, I sprinkle a supplement mix on top. I make this mix – it has ground egg shells (for calcium), flax seeds, chia seeds (I understand that these seeds are high in omegas that are good for balancing fat) and a multi-vitamin powder.

    In addition to this, I tailor things a big. Macaws and African Greys get some fruit and nuts (part of their daily diet, what they would eat in their natural habitats); also, Lorenza gets some scrambled eggs – which Dr. Clubb said was fine/good. I did notice that eggs provide vitamin B, listed as a nutritional supplement to support liver function (above). I offer some egg to the big birds too (like 1 to 3 beak-bites worth).

    Throughout the day, I give Lorenza what she’ll eat off my plate: Mandarin oranges, pomegranate seeds (wow, she stained my clothes, the floor! LOL), cranberries (I’m not convinced these are good for her…), sometimes carrots, quinoa – apple.

  3. Seeds – I’m a curmudgeon with these. I give them to my birds sparingly, as if they were dollar bills! They might each get 0 or 3 every day. While they do NEED some fat in their diet, I find that their pellets offer this. So, seeds are relationship-building treats or training treats.

I believe in keeping happy, healthy people and parrots in my home. We make exceptions and eat well, but we also work to keep everyone buzzing with energy and well-being!

My Conclusion?

Unfortunately, I think that once the liver has been compromised, it’s never as strong as it once was. Of course, this is relative to how ‘compromised’ it is. My vet told me that Lorenza would be on milk thistle and calcium for ever – indicating that this is a permanent diagnosis or one you have to manage for the rest of the bird’s life. Let me tell you, I hear milk thistle was super-healthy, so I got milk-thistle tea. There was no way I could drink it, not even with tons of sweetener in it! Lorenza seemed to feel the same way – it didn’t matter what treat I tried putting it on, she wouldn’t go near it!

Prevention, of course. That’s the best answer – but in our case, I adopted Lorenza (appx 10 years old) and she already had FLD. So, a good diet. It’s working – she’s a happier, more bird-like bird. Changing habits is hard – birds are stubborn- but I believe strongly in eating well both for myself and for her, so that’s what we do – in the easiest and most convenient ways possible for me. So, she avoids the spinach on my plate, as we share a meal.

I Need A Chef: What To Feed Your Pet Parrot

One of the biggest questions people ask is about what to feed their parrot. 
 
I’ve done a lot of research, asked a avian vet (who is the representative of the US for CITIES – which determine the level of threat of extinction for each species) and looked to see what experts say.
 
I’ve also monitored my parrots – and I find that their colors look better after a few weeks of joining my flock.
 
So, here’s what I do:
Every day my parrots get veggies in the morning. I try to vary their 🥕veggies (but, we all know that they require a STAFF, including a chef 🔪).
Some healthy favorites are 🥕carrots and 🌽 (corn should be the NOT sweet kind) – I try to limit the corn, it’s not as good at delivering healthy stuff as other veggies.
 
I 🥬give them some spinach (this is left in the dish sometimes, go figure!) and cut a bell pepper.
 
Today I had pomegranate seeds on hand- Lorenza (my YNA) LOVES them, we’ll see how every other birdie feels about them!
 
In the evenings I sometimes try to share my edamame beans, sweet potato and any other veggie that I am eating.
 
THE NO LIST: NO AVOCADO, ONION, GARLIC; no fat, no chocolate or caffeen and no apple seeds or fruit pits (is the list I’ve seen). Oh, no alcohol! I’ve told Lorenza, sorry, no tequila for you…
 
Depending on the size of the parrot, I chop more finely-
 
A lot of people are more amazing – they make gourmet mixes and chops. I try to keep it relatively simple.
 
I’m working to add some more leafy greens-
 
You can see from their dishes, depending on the bird size, I don’t give them a ton (it’ll just get smelly and gross if it goes uneaten). My birds RUSH to their veggie dish when it gets put in, so they do like the variety. If your parrot isn’t eating veggies, you need to add this to their diet. Expect it to take a couple of months, give or take, for them to add the eating habit.
 
The rest of the day, mine have their pellets (available to be pooped in 24/7, because I try to place the dishes strategically so they don’t poop in them, but…) and, of course, they have water 24/7.
 
Their pellets and water get changed as needed or once a day when their bowl gets washed (I don’t like eating out of dirty dishes, so I figure it’s gross for them too – I wash people and bird dishes a lot! 🥗
 
Seeds – we only give as treats (the smaller birds, like budgies or parrotlets, get more– they have faster metabolisms and I believe they need more fat, but it’s still not their core food). Nuts and fruit are a requirement for macaws and African Greys, so they get some every day. I do give some fruit to the medium-sized birds, but not as a part of their daily diet, more as a treat.
 
LMK if you’ve found another healthy

What Is A Blue-headed Pionus Like: A Good Apartment Parrot

“Blue-headed Pionus are the most commonly available Pionus species” (Source)

If you are like one of my closest friends, and you are looking into the right parrot for you, you need to look carefully. The cockatoo family is energetic, animated and jovial, but these are the loudest parrots I know of and they require great amounts of love and attention. If you are in an apartment or a condo, you’d probably get kicked out!

On the other hand, the Blue-headed Pionus, native to South and Central America, is easily one of the best apartment parrots you can choose. Why?

Personality

This parrot is sweet, likes people but is also independent. While she requires significant time and attention from her keeper, like any other parrot, she is also good at being on her own.
Parrots are often referred to as “fids,” or ‘feathered-kids.’ This is because this isn’t a pet, like a fish, that is meant to be fed and admired. A parrot is more of a companion, one of the most intelligent animals (scientifically currently rivaling apes) that requires engagement, interaction and mental stimulation in order to be emotionally (and therefore physically) healthy.

Parrots are true companions, but that’s what I like about the Pionus:
“They are very affectionate and although they are not birds that particularly enjoy being cuddled, they do love a head scratch.They are quite independent birds, they are happy to amuse themselves with toys and food without constant attention from the owner. Well-socialized pionus parrots really enjoy interacting with people.” Source: Beauty of Birds

Physical Attributes of Pionus menstruus Species (Blue-headed Pionus)

This medium-sized parrot is an average of 11 inches (27 cm) long and adults weigh around 230-295 grams. Great size!

The Blue-headed Pionus is not sexually dimorphic, so males can’t be distinguished from females. To know the gender, a DNA test is required.

Voice: Sound Level & Talking Ability

Being highly intelligent seems to mean that parrots do what they want, some some talkers, don’t. Yes, a Blue-headed Pionus have the ability, though some simply don’t. Depends on each bird. The Blue-headed Pionus that do talk sound squeeky, but are said to be fair talkers.

https://youtu.be/_GQX_KOf1k0

Feeding Your Blue-headed Pionus

Most parrots fall under the same dietary requirement and should be fed mostly high-quality pellets, as these are formulated to offer birds almost everything they need to eat. Additionally, fresh fruits and vegetables should be offered daily, (no avocados, these are toxic to parrots) with seeds given occasionally as treats.

Birds should not eat many fats, and this is more so true for the Blue-headed Pionus.

This is meant as general feeding information, look for more specific information or contact your avian veterinarian to learn more specifics about feeding your Pionus.

Is A Blue-headed Pionus Right for Me?

This is the right bird for you if you don’t want a ‘noisy’ parrot. If you’ve never had a parrot before, the Blue-headed Pionus may be perfect for you because, in addition to their beautiful blue heads and gorgeous, shimmering feathers in sunlight, a Pionus won’t require the same amount of time that less independent parrots need.

Being a medium-sized parrot, the Blue-headed Pionus can also do well out of it’s cage in your home. Provide him with a couple of perches so that he has his “space” to play, eat and spend time (in addition to his cage) and you won’t have a hard time keeping track of him, like you could with a smaller parrot who can hide in small spaces!

A Parrot-Safe Home

Make sure not to have scented products, such as candles, perfume or air fresheners. My theory is that it’s really bad for them, which is a fact, therefore it can’t really be good for you and me either! Also be careful to not use Teflon cookware, as the fumes can be extremely hazardous to parrots (can cause death).

For more on Keeping A Healthy Parrot, check out our blogs on Healthy Parrot.


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Keeping Your Parrot Warm in Winter & Cool in the Summer

Baby, It’s Cold Outside!

Whether it is an arctic chill hitting the US or the sun shinning down i the form of rays, as responsible, loving parrot owners, we need to be aware of temperatures and how they can affect our birds.

It’s interesting to find that parrots can actually take some cold weather. I’ve read about Indian Ringnecks over-breading in England, so much so that they are considered a pest to farmers, and Quaker nests breaking telephone polls in Chicago. In both cases, these parrots are withstanding cold winter weather, breaking the expectation that a ‘tropical’ bird isn’t built for the cold.

On the flip side, the same is true of some parrots in the summer – they can only take so much heat.

A part of the reason that parrots do well in the wild is because they are free to take care of themselves. They can seek shelter from a freezing wind or seek a refreshing bath in the in the hottest summer hours. When they are in captivity, we take on the responsibility of looking out for them. As such, I’ve researched to make sure that I’m providing the proper environmental temperatures for my parrots. This is super important! If you have parrots, you may know that it is hard to tell when they are ill. They hide their illness so much so that by the time you see signs that something is wrong, it is usually too late. So, I like to be preventative in my care.

Here is a great Facebook post from Tony Silva on parrot care during the cold and warm seasons:

Temperature tolerance in parrots: highs and lows
By Tony Silva

During the current cold snap across the US, I am receiving countless emails, phone calls and messages. The questions invariably consist of one of various versions of the following: What is the lowest temperature that my parrot can withstand? The general perception is that parrots are solely tropical and that they will sicken or perish if the temperature drops even slightly. In truth parrots are extremely tolerant of cold. Several species occupy paramo highlands, extreme parts of the northern or southern hemispheres and isolated locations where freezing temperatures are common. More tropical species also display a great degree of cold tolerance. In general all parrot species have shown that they can adapt to living in frigid conditions if the exposure to cold is gradual, so that they can molt into winter feather. You cannot take a bird living in a warm house and suddenly expose it to frigid conditions. That can prove detrimental.

The sub Antarctic island of Antipodes is inhabited by a parakeet—Cyanoramphus unicolor. It is the largest of the kakarikis. It has adapted to living in an area where summer temperatures average 10°C (51°F) and the winter temperature can drop below 4°C (40°F). That this species can tolerate wet, wind and cold is expected, given its evolutionary adaptation. But cold tolerance is also seen in tropical species. The Double Yellow-headed Amazon Amazona oratrix comes from Mexico’s Atlantic coast, where the average winter temperature is 15°C (60°F). It would seem to be the epitome of a tropical species, but in Stuttgart, Germany there is a feral flock that is growing and thriving. It started with a singleton in 1984 and today numbers more than 50 individuals. These individuals experience snow, cold and an average temperature of 0°C (33°F) in January, the coldest month. Ring-neck Parakeets Psittacula krameri, Quaker Parakeets Myiopsitta monachus and other species thrive across frigid Europe, including the United Kingdom, and also parts of the US north. I have seen Quaker Parakeets in Chicago on a January day where the wind-chill was a blistering -22°C (-9°F) in Chicago’s Hyde Park. They survived that winter and many others and today represent a growing flock. Across Europe, from Russia to the UK, I have seen parrots of all species in outdoors aviaries, even though they had access to a heated shelter. One observation vividly come to mind. I was wearing a parka, gloves, hat and scarf. The macaws were playing in the snow oblivious to the cold. Another involved walking across a huge aviary belonging to Kaj Herse in Denmark. The aviary contained Australian cockatoos, parrots and parakeets. The aviary offered no heat yet even the small Budgerigars Melopsittacus undulatus thrived.

The above establishes that parrots can be cold tolerant. The question then is what are the parameters to keep birds safe on cool days. Here is my list:

1) They need to have food and water. Fat rich foods are important, as they help the body generate heat.

2) They need to have protection from wet and wind. Outdoors a nesting box can offer protection for overnight drops in temperatures. Simple plastic sheets can add further protection; the aviary or cage can be wrapped in sheets of plastic. If the temperature will drop beyond a critical level, a heat lamp or heated room will be necessary. Indoors a blanket or towels can help.

3) The concern level should start when the temperature drops below 15°C (60°F). Bird that are acclimated to living outdoors will develop a thicker under down that will allow them to survive far more cold, including freezing weather; in such a climate they need protection for their feet to prevent frost bite. This can come in the form of a heated perch. The exposed facial skin on macaws, birds that are plucked, which are elderly or infirm must have access to a heated shelter (warmed to 15°C) in winter.

4) Wooden perches are best, as plastic and metal can chill or freeze, causing toe necrosis and loss.

5) Never should a bird showing signs of cold stress be left outdoors. They should be brought into a warm room immediately. Cold stress includes extremely ruffled feathers, inactivity, lack of feeding and shivering. On touch the birds will feel cold.

Heat tolerance, like with cold, also has a threshold. Species from the equator can tolerate a lot more heat than those from areas far north or south of the equator. The Slender-billed Conure Enicognathus leptorhynchus is found in Chile’s temperate forests. It has very thick feathering. They dislike it when in summer the mercury begins to climb. Mine bathe in a bowl to which I have added ice cubes during Miami’s strong summer heat. The birds will bathe several times daily if the ice water is provided. Kakarikis (Cyanoramphus sp.) also show discomfort in very warm weather. When I kept this species, I was forced to bring them indoors into an air conditioned room because they were absolutely miserable outdoors. In winter, on a chilly rainy January, they were bathing. That day the mercury read 6°C (43°F)—a unusually cool day for Miami.

The conditions for parrots surviving the heat are several:

1) Shade must be available. The bird must be able to sit in the shade. The food and water must also be in the shade.

2) Metal perches should be avoided, as they can become excessively hot.

3) There must be good airflow; stagnant air can make it intolerable.

4) Fresh, cool water must be available for bathing and drinking. A fog mister can help the birds stay cool during the hottest part of the day. Multiple 15 minutes runs of a mister during the hottest part of the day can make it more tolerable for the birds.

5) Fatty or carbohydrate foods should be limited, as they will merely contribute towards obesity. In summer we feed some fruit, which normally is offered in very limited quantity to the birds; their diet is rich in vegetables.

6) Discomfort for most species is evident above 40°C (104°F), which is the parrot’s average core body temperature. Panting, holding the wings away from the body, perching on the aviary floor in traditional walk in aviaries and inactivity suggest that the birds will need to be cooled.

The goal of the aviculturist is to provide the best conditions for the birds. Insuring that they are neither too cold or too hot is the task of many across the globe. Both forms of stress can contribute to illness and even death.

Finally, if you enjoy aviculture, please Do NOT support the World Parrot Trust. I kindly ask that you visit the Facebook page Stop the World Parrot Trust and leave a like. This entity is a menace to bird keeping and aviculture.

If you would like to learn more about cold and heat tolerance please refer to my book Psittaculture, which is available from www.psittaculture.eu.


Smaller Parrot & Temperature

I’ve noticed that most of the research I’ve done talks about medium size to large parrots. When in comes to smaller guys, like Budgies, Lovebirds, Green-cheek conures, Cockatiels and so on, I haven’t found specific information. My smaller parrots are indoors during the cold, even though I’m in southern Florida. During the summer, I provide outdoor shade and multiple water and bath sources.

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Eggs As Food: Is That Cannibalism for Parrots?

nest of robin eggs

Brian T. Evans/Getty Images

It sounds a little odd to feed eggs to parrots. After all, parrots are birds and they lay eggs to procreate. But it really isn’t at all unusual for birds in the wild to eat other species’ eggs…

Gulls are known to eat eggs as well and they don’t even bother trying to fly off with it. They simply settle in on the nest where they found the egg and eat it right there.

Egg Nutrition

Eggs are a powerful food that feeds the brains of these sharp creatures. It takes a certain amount of intelligence to survive in the wild, so a meal from an egg is a good choice. Egg yolks contain choline which is a serious brain food because it makes rapid thinking far easier by speeding up the relay signals in the brain. The choline found in eggs also aid liver function and transferring and distributing nutrients throughout the body where it is needed.

The eggshell is an excellent source of calcium which is sparse in the wild. This calcium is valuable to a bird because a female is going to need it if she lay eggs of her own. The calcium she consumes helps form a stronger shell for those eggs she wants to lay. She has to seek it out any way she can and eggs are a pretty easy way to get it. That egg isn’t her egg so she really doesn’t care about it. All that wild bird cares about is feeding herself and laying healthy eggs with strong shells.

An egg also contains all of the essential amino acids. An essential amino acid is one where the body cannot manufacture it on its own. It must be absorbed by consuming food that contains those essential amino acids…
Eggs are a completely natural food and they have no carbohydrates and no sugar. And if you think about it, they contain only one ingredient: Egg.

While I don’t include the egg shell in my scrambled or poached eggs, I do feed my flock egg shells. For Christmas my husband got me a ‘real’ mortar and pestle (since I was using a rolling pin, which wasn’t working as well) – we keep several shells, clean them, bake them and then I crush them up and sprinkle them on the flock’s veggies. Takes a little time, but it’s easy, free and good for your birds!

What is a Peach-Fronted Conure Like?

Kiwi – Peach-fronted Conure
Is This Parrot Like Other GCC (Green Cheeck Conures)?

This is Kiwi, who is supposed to be a female Peach-front conure, but someone who has dealt in the bird world told us that his guess is male. Oh no! I wanted to get Kiwi a male mate, should I get a female instead, if I can even find one?

Oh boy! Conures are not sexually isomorphic, which means you can’t tell the males apart from the females. Time for a DNA test! The friend we got her from became ill and had to downsize her flock. Our friend said that Kiwi is female and that we’d be hard-pressed to find another Peach-front conure to be her buddy, since Peach-front conures are rare. We like for our fids to have a buddy because birds are highly social and generally live in large flocks with many other birds.

What is a Peach-front Conure Like?

Kiwi is very sweet. Typical to conures in general, she is very people-personable. She’s my daughter’s, but I like to bring her with me in the car sometimes.

Kiwi is great because she doesn’t bite (meaning that she’ll beak you, but she won’t hurt you). When Kiwi and I are away from the flock, she talks to me, like when we go places in the car. All of a sudden she’ll start squeaking or clicking her beak. I respond with a question and we engage in a conversation – not that she uses words, she chirps, sings and tweets.

I find conures to be very mellow, and Kiwi is too. They are very happy to hang out on a shoulder, see the sights and enjoy some attention. Sometimes they groom themselves, sometimes they fly off to see someone else or play with something they see.

Peach-front conures are not the same species as a Green-cheek conure, which confused me at first because they are basically the same size and weight. Peach-front conures belong to the clasification Eupsittula; Green-cheeck conures belong to Pyrrhura. Not that I can pronounce these!

Parrots are blissful to look at because their display of colors is mesmerizing. Physically Kiwi’s peach-orange and then blue coloring at her crown are stunning! My daughter loves the lime-green coloring on her front.

Conures can be loud birds, but Kiwi isn’t really. The most I hear out of her is when we are on a car ride. I greatly enjoy this about her. My other birds don’t get vocal in the car. It feels like Kiwi is interested in developing a relationship with me, so she takes advantage when she has me sitting as a captive audience.

Having a Peach-fronted conure is easy. They are good eaters, she eats her pellets, veggies and occasional treats. As I said, she’s not too loud so that I think she’d be fine in an apartment, and she does fine with other birds, meaning she just does her thing and enjoys her toys or her time with us. In these ways, she is like other GCG. Her temperament may be a little more mellow; you could say that GCG are a little more playful and curious compared to her.

In any case, Kiwi is a beautiful, breezy girl! (Or so we’re told!)

 

Breakfast Eggs For My Yellow-Napped Amazon

Eggs For Lorenza, Amazon Parrot 

Meet Lorenza, my Yellow-napped Amazon who is on a strict diet because she has FLD (fatty liver disease). The vet said that eggs can be on her diet, and she gobbles them up! Eggs are a complete meal, minus vit C, so I figure, it’s got to be good for her. Hmmm… I don’t know if the vet meant she could have them daily, do you? 

https://youtu.be/ml5ZsKdqp4A

How Lorenza Joined the Flock 

My daughter, Xelha (pronounced Shell-ha), is a bird expert, so one of her favorite pastimes is to visit our favorite exotic bird stores on the weekends. Last fall, we were visiting one and saw Lorenza. She spoke to me, saying “Hi” and “I love you,” from inside her cage. I figured she did this all of the time, I didn’t really think that she loved me! We walked to the next isle of birds and my daughter pointed out that Lorenza didn’t stop watching me. She turned in her cage to face my direction until I circled back around to say hello again. She was a character and certainly had my attention. However, I wasn’t planning to get a bird, let alone an Amazon. I have heard that they are loud, demanding and, of course, they are big which means you need a big cage for them. So, we went home. 

 But I couldn’t stop thinking about her. I had sent my husband a Marco Polo of Lorenza talking to me, which I watched several times that afternoon. That night I couldn’t sleep. All I could do is think about that Amazon… too much money. Too much responsibility. I already had the best bird in the world, a Caique named Phoenix who was with me all of the time. 

 The next day I felt tormented. Was Lorenza choosing me? Why couldn’t I stop thinking about her? I felt like a five year old that asks for candy over and over and over…  

 Did she like me? Can you turn down an exotic bird that choses you? Why me? “I’m being ridiculous,” I told myself.  I tried to focus on work and let the idea go. I guess I kept talking about her though, because around lunch my husband asked if I wanted to go get her, and we did. 

 Lorenza delighted us on the drive home. She leaned toward me in her carrier cage, which surprised me. My husband and I were in a daze of amazement and wonder at having just purchased the largest bird we’d ever had, when we were further surprised as she laughed along with my husband! 

Adjusting to a New Home 

I thought that Lorenza was a scared bird, so I cautiously took her out of her cage to hold her that night.  She seemed slow and cautious as she came to me and let me pick her up. No one else was allowed to approach her, they really still aren’t. Maybe she’s wasn’t a scared bird, just a temperamental one! 

 A couple of months went by and Lorenza was making herself at home. She let me pet her and liked spending time with me on her perch or on my arm. As our first big bird, we didn’t realize that she wasn’t active, which is a-typical for a bird. Xelha and I started to notice little things. Her feathers seemed to be getting brighter and she looked like she’d lost weight. We tried to analyze her poops, which you are supposed to do to monitor your bird’s health, and we thought they looked like something was wrong. Once we had enough clues that gave us an uneasy feeling, we took her to the vet.  

Pizza is not for birds! 

Fortunately, our vet is a world-renowned avian doctor, Dr. Susan Club. Unfortunately, the prognosis was that Lorenza has FLD, which will be an on-going issue. It can be common for Amazon parrots to get FLD when their diet is too high in fats, which they tend to get from seeds. Birds are funny in the sense that a lot of them can live as long, or longer, than a human, but they can’t tell you where they’ve been or what’s happened to them, even when they talk. Dr. Club guessed that Lorenza was around 10 years old, which is what the seller had said, but there is no real way to know a bird’s age. She may have had too many seeds in the bird store, but, more likely, her previous owner also fed her seeds or fatty human foods, like pizza. 

 That’s Lorenza’s story. She really did choose me, which I think is so cool. Now I can see why, I eat like a bird, so we have more in common that you’d guess. She’s a happy bird, unless Xelha or another bird are close by (Lorenza gets jealous). A better diet has meant that Lorenza now moves around, trying to bite at and rip things up, which is healthy bird behavior. She stretches her wings, another normal part of a bird’s routine, but something we had not seen her do those first months. I hadn’t know that her wings held red and black feathers until Dr. Club was giving her an exam and opened her wings!   

Lorenza tells me when she wants some of what I’m eating, “Want some!” She also tells me when she wants to be picked up, “Wanna come,” and says “Bye-bye” when she knows I’m leaving the house. I enjoy meditating with her in the morning, perching her on my shoulder for a walk around the block, sharing my morning eggs with her and petting her so that she fluffs her cheek feathers out, like a chipmunk. 

 Yes, parrots make great pets. Of course, it’s not all fun and feathers. I used to travel the world- no more. I used to clean when the moon was blue- now my broom is blue and it’s become attached to my hand. Still, the poop, seed and cage cleaning are all worth a BFF – best feathered friend – bond. 

 

 

How Much Time Should Your Parrot Spend Out of Cage?

As a parrot owner, you’ve probably heard it said that birds are supposed to spend time outside their cage every day for their own happiness and well-being. I tend to be pragmatic and I like to have happy birds, so I don’t just go by the clock to determine how much play time they need.

A lot of experts say that the larger the bird, like an African Grey or a cockatoo, the more they should spend several hours out of their cage daily; smaller birds, like a budgie or a green cheeck conure, require less, but “less” still means a significant amount of time out.

Huge Time Out

I’m sure that YouTubers represent the bird keepers who love their birds and love taking care of them, so they may not be representative of most bird owners. Nevertheless I get inspired and amazed at times when I see the elaborate play rooms or jungle gyms that people build for their birds. They look like fun… for their birds- or for me! No doubt, these birds have a great time when they are out of their cage – and it looks like their homes are aimed at giving the birds a lot of jungle gym time.

It is wonderful to be able to give our birds the biggest cage, the coolest perch or play area and the best life possible, no doubt. If you are fortunate enough to be able to build your bird a playground, then you probably don’t even think about the time out they require. That is awesome and I’m jealous! For the rest of us, how much time is right?

Engage In Or Out Of The Cage

When you come home tired from work or school, how much time out does your fid need to stretch, fly or explore? Because you probably don’t have any (time or energy).

In my opinion, one of the coolest things about our ‘modern times’ is that people have more awareness about many things, including keeping pet parrots. In this video the Parrot Wizard talks about the fact that it’s not the time out that is key, but rather the quality of time. He makes a great point in saying that if your bird is out of his cage, but she is bored, then it doesn’t make a difference whether she’s in or out of the cage. Quality and engagement are more important that counting hours.

Feather Size Matters

A second factor to use in determining how much time you should give your bird out of it’s cage depends on their feather size. Yes, size matters because larger birds need more space to spread their wings and they need rooms or aviaries, not just large cages, to get a fair amount of exercise. Feather movement should be another factor: some birds, even within the same species, are more active than others. Younger birds, like human children, display more energy, curiosity and a greater desire to play. Adult birds tend to make less noise – in my experience – move around less and are easier to have out of their cage. An active bird needs more space.

Are You Saying Old Is Better?

I have found a bird’s age to make for an interesting factor- an older bird, maybe a re-homed bird- means you get to skip the terrible twos. At home we have re-homed birds and birds that we got as babies. The re-homed, older birds tend to be more mellow.

As nature would have it, some of the smallest birds are the quickest and the zip around the most. When they are out of their cage they can be very difficult to catch. The larger birds are on the other end of the spectrum. The larger (and older) the bird, the easier they are to spot (they can’t hide the way a budgie can) and the easier they are to catch.

Sure, that’s a generalization, but some of this makes perfect sense. In nature budgies out-fly stalking hawks because budgies can turn and dive with agility. Larger birds have a harder time keeping up with these movements. This means that by natural design, the smaller and younger the birds, the more active they are.

But Personality Should Determine it All

The bottom line is that birds should spend as much time either outside of their cages and engaged with you or have a companion; they should be in aviaries that provide sunshine, fresh air and room to fly around.

If you can’t live that ideal – maybe one day for me! – then you have to find what works best for you and your bird. Birds are amazing, intelligent creatures. I am a firm believer that having a parrot (or another kind of pet) provides companionship, love and a deep bond with uplifting physiological benefits. A happy, healthy bird means an inviting, loving home (for you both).

The Black Cockatoos unique to Western Australia

As  a bird lover (or animal lover) it sounds like Australia is  a must! Australia is also home to numerous other exotic parrots we love, budgies, cockatiels, Palm parrots, Galahs and several others (as I recall). Enjoy the blog!

The Black Cockatoos unique to Western Australia

On an unusually wintry spring morning we travelled to Martin for the tour day weekend held at Kaarakin, a West Australian Black Cockatoo conservation centre.

If you’ve followed my instagram account you may have noticed a couple of photos of a largish black bird. This is because a flock of Forest Red tailed Black-Cockatoos have taken a keen liking to the Cape Lilac tree in the backyard. Watching their daily comings and goings over a period of four months has been entertaining turned exciting when we spotted a juvenile in the flock. Eventually they stripped all of the seeds from the tree and having no intentions at making a friendship with us they moved on.

A fact that may surprise some including myself is there are three species of the Black Cockatoo unique to south west Western Australia – Carnaby’s Black-Cockatoo, Baudin’s Black-Cockatoo and the Forest Red-tailed-Cockatoo.

The tour took us through the park, past resident animals of kangaroos, emus and peacocks, a legacy of the old Cohunu Park which has now moved to Byford. As it turned out the animals were too big to be transported and home is now at Kaarakin.  A group of dedicated volunteers have been working since Kaarakin opened on the site years ago to transform the park into more of a natural habitat for the animals. The old wombat concrete enclosure was a sad sight and as were the bird cages, a sign of past mind sets focused on human entertainment over conservation and protection of animals. Thank goodness that is long gone in this area!

Kaarakin is a not for profit organisation working for the rehabilitation and conservation of the Black Cockatoos. During the tour we pass by two large enclosures, one housing cockatoos that will be released back into the wild and the other where the cockatoos are unable to be released due to their sustained injuries. In this enclosure human interaction is tolerated however those deemed okay for future release have very limited human interaction to aid their overall chances of survival.

Kaarakin’s small army of volunteers and part time staff members partner with institutes like Murdoch University, Perth Zoo and the Department of Parks and Wildlife. To call their work amazing is an understatement – it’s legendary.

The very last stop on the tour is the interactive aviary where we’d be able to get up close to the birds and as we later realised, this was definitely our favourite part of the tour. There were a series of question checks and spraying of shoe soles in the best interests of the birds before we entered.

Being the first tour for the day, the birds were excitably active and a few gathered close by. Now if you’ve experienced the loud calls of these birds in the forest let me say up close the piercing noise is something you must witness! Especially being surrounded by half a dozen chatty birds.

The birds within the interactive enclosure are fairly tame and as we walk in a few fly above us, others continue feeding and one decides to land on a ladies head!

It was remarkable to see the appearance of these birds up close, their feather colours, the way they ate, their claws and bills. In the wild this is virtually impossible and if you see a Black Cockatoo on the ground it more than likely means it is sick or injured.

The strong powerful bill of the Black Cockatoo is capable of extracting the seed found in a eucalyptus nut, its favoured food source. Interestingly each of the three species attacks the nut differently. We learnt by inspecting the discarded nuts on the forest floor we can identify which Black Cockatoo has been around the area.  This is knowledge any nature lover will get excited about and yes I too was a little excited at the prospect of using this whilst on the trails in Western Australia!

The Carnaby’s Black-Cockatoo (pictured below) chews off the top of the nut. The Baudin’s Black-Cockatoo has a longer and narrow bill with the ability to almost surgically extract the nut. The Forest Red tailed Black-Cockatoo, well, it makes a mess of the nut.

While the Baudin and Carnaby look very similar with white markings and are each identified by their bills, the Forest Red tailed is differentiated by the red colour on the tail and it’s call is a sharp boisterous ‘karak’. The female and male forest red tailed are further distinguished with the male being black all over and a red colouring on the tail. The female has beautiful yellowish and pale orange specks as pictured below.

The Forest Red tailed Black-Cockatoo is also the smallest of the three species and we able to see this in the enclosure during the tour.

Have you ever seen a Black-Cockatoo cuddle, well you are about too- this male Forest Red tailed Black-Cockatoo had wrapped his wing around in an adorable show of affection to one of the staff members.

The juvenile pictured below was inquisitive but not quite willing to be persuaded to perch on either one of us. All the same his chants and head shakes in peacock fashion were very entertaining. Derek replicated the same to which the juvenile curiously put one claw on his arm and took it off several times.

Flocks of Carnaby’s Black-Cockatoos and Baudin’s Black-Cockatoos are becoming less of a common sight around the place and recent research from Birdlife Australia indicated these guys could be no longer in the Perth/Peel region by 2029 at the current 15% per year rate of decline.

While it’s wonderful to see these birds in my backyard, the reality is the Cape Lilac tree they feed off is an introduced exotic tree and at this stage there is little known about the long term effects to the birds. Also the new backyard visitors is a an indication they are losing their native forest and moving into urban areas to source food and suitable nests. We could also says it’s fantastic they are learning to adapt but we can’t let this lead us into thinking it’s okay to remove large pockets of their true habitat.

Loss of their regular stomping grounds through forest clearing or fire affects breeding habits missing crucial opportunities to breed from one year to the next. To put the breeding issues into perspective, it takes 80 plus years for a tree to develop a hollow suitable for the birds to nest. Raven attacks and nest competition from other animals including the introduced European bees are also ongoing threats. The good news though, is that artificial hollows are proving very successful in supporting the breeding of these birds and rehabilitated birds released are being taken in by wild flocks. The future is hopeful because of these conservation efforts.

If you have cockatoo visitors at home you’ll have trees with food, consider an artificial hollow and a water source for the birds. If you live in Perth and have space to do so, consider native trees and plants in the gardens because not only do they help the Black-Cockatoos and local native wildlife they also create a healthier environment at home for you and the family. If you have large pockets of land you may consider DPAW’s Land for Wildlife scheme The Black Cockatoos unique to Western Australia | WayTooMuchCoffee.com

 

Yes, There Were Parakeets in North America

Interesting to learn that we had a parakeet in the US. Although parakeet just means parrot with long tail, I tend to know “parakeets” as budgies. I love finding out that we had native parrots here!

Enjoy the blog!

Charleston Currents – HISTORY: Carolina parakeet

S.C. Encyclopedia  |  Now extinct, the Carolina parakeet (Conuropsis carolinensis) was a dove-sized (about thirty-five centimeters long) bird with a bright green body, yellow head, and orange face. Mark Catesby, an English naturalist living in Charleston, painted the parakeet in 1731, thus providing the first scientific description of the species. The species was abundant in early America, and its range extended to New York, Colorado, and Florida. The Carolina parakeet was well known for its ability to withstand harsh winters, due to the winter availability of its main foods: cockleburs, thistle seeds, and sandspurs.

The parakeets nested in tree hollows, usually in mature bottomland forests composed of cypress or sycamores. Although it is believed that a high fraction of the population did not breed each year, low reproductive rates may have been balanced by longevity. Many captive Carolina parakeets lived ten years, and one was believed to have attained thirty years.

Several theories exist regarding what caused the extinction of the species, including hunting, loss of mature swamp forests, competition with imported honeybees for nest holes, reduced food supply, and disease. Disease has been generally accepted as the main cause. The parrots were highly social and often roosted together, which would explain the rapid spread of a disease. In the 1800s naturalists noted declines in parakeet numbers, and by 1900 it was apparent that the parakeet was rare outside southern Florida. One of the last verified sightings occurred in June 1938 when Warren and Hollie Shokes saw a pair with a young bird in the Santee River swamp of Georgetown County. Thus, South Carolina was the site of both the first sketch and a final sighting of the Carolina parakeet.

— Excerpted from an entry by William Post.  This entry hasn’t been updated since 2006.  To read more about this or 2,000 other entries about South Carolina, check out The South Carolina Encyclopedia, published in 2006 by USC Press. (Information used by permission.)

Carolina parakeets, illustrated by John James Audubon in 1833. Via Wikipedia. Charleston Currents – HISTORY: Carolina parakeet

Charleston Currents – HISTORY: Carolina parakeet