Feeding apples and fruits to parrots can be a delightful addition to their diet, offering essential nutrients, flavors, and variety.
However, it’s crucial to understand the specifics before introducing these treats into a parrot’s daily intake. Apples, for instance, are generally safe for parrots. They provide vitamins like C and A, along with dietary fiber, making them a healthy choice.
However, precautions are necessary:
Parrots haven’t evolved to digest fructose, so too much fruit can be hard on their liver. It an also make them hyper, potentially causing behavioral issues.
Due to the seeds’ cyanide content, removing the seeds from an apple and core is vital as they can be toxic to birds. Slicing the fruit into small, manageable pieces is ideal, and only give one or two pieces.
Fruits that are high in beta-carotene provide benefits, including:
Immune system:
Beta-carotene can boost the immune system by increasing disease-fighting cells.
Vision (important for parrots): Beta-carotene is a precursor to vitamin A, which is essential for vision.
Cellular health: Beta-carotene protects cells from damage caused by free radicals. Free radicals damage cells through a process called oxidation, which can lead to chronic illnesses.
Cancer: Beta-carotene may reduce the risk of cancer.
Heart disease and stroke: Beta-carotene may reduce the risk of heart disease and stroke.
Skin
PLEASE NOTE: I am not a nutritionist. The beta-carotine beneftis are taken from online research, but beta-carotine is important for parrots.
The take-away is that you can give your parrot small amounts of fruit, as a “dessert,” and that it is best to give beta-carotine fruit because:
“Beta-carotene is a provitamin that can be converted into vitamin A by enzymes in a parrot’s gut. Vitamin A is important for: Immune system, Healthy cell growth, Eyesight, Skin health, Mucous membranes.”
Choose your fruits carefully for the benefit it provides based on what your parrot needs.
While fruits offer nutritional benefits, they should not replace a balanced parrot diet. Pellets specifically formulated for parrots typically cover their essential nutritional needs.
Again, too much fruit can lead to excessive sugar intake, potentially causing health issues like obesity or digestive problems. Consulting with an avian veterinarian or a bird nutrition expert is advisable to ensure your parrot’s diet remains well-balanced. Monitoring their reactions to new fruits is crucial, as individual parrots may have varying tolerances or allergies to certain foods.
Overall, with proper preparation and moderation, offering fruits, including apples, can be a healthy and enjoyable addition to a parrot’s diet.
Kalyn is a parrot-book author!
Check out her books, including The Parrot Bliss Bond, Meet African Grey & Cape Parrots, Feathered Splendor, 30 Perfect Apartment Parrots, The Parrot Keeper’s Companion & Journal Find these HERE
Conure Parrots Talking: 3 Factors That Determine Abilities
Conures: Talking Parrots
Welcome to my channel!
The ability of a conure to talk is influenced by several factors, ranging from interaction patterns to inherent traits.
TIME
The amount of time spent with these parrots plays a crucial role. Conures thrive on social interaction, and consistent engagement fosters their inclination to mimic sounds and words. Regular interaction creates a conducive environment for learning, significantly impacting their talking abilities.
REPETITION
Repetition is key in teaching conures to talk. Consistently repeating phrases or words establishes familiarity, aiding these birds in grasping and imitating the sounds. Repetition helps reinforce the association between specific sounds and their meanings, enhancing the likelihood of verbal replication.
SIZE, SPECIES & AGE
Moreover, the size and age of conures can affect their speech capabilities. Younger conures often display a higher propensity to learn and mimic sounds compared to older ones. However, individual personalities also play a role. Some conures might naturally exhibit a more vocal and imitative nature, while others might be quieter or less inclined to mimic human speech. Volume is a separate question from vocabulary: a Sun Conure is among the loudest parrots commonly kept, at roughly 120 decibels, yet it is only a modest talker.
Understanding these factors—time spent together, repetitive communication, age, and individual personalities—helps create an environment conducive to encouraging conures to talk, though it’s important to note that not all conures will necessarily develop extensive vocabularies due to inherent variations in their abilities and preferences.
How Many Parrotlets Can I Put In A Parrotlet Aviary?
The truth is that I’m getting a new -small- aviary, which had me thinking about how many #Parrotlets I could get in the new aviary.
First, why would you want to put Parrotlets together?
There are several advantages. My favorite is that it gives the parrotlets the chance to choose a best feathered friend, or a mate, from a larger pool.
If you have several Parrotlets, an aviary – or three in my case- is easier to take care of than several smaller cages. The larger space allows the Parrotlets to fly around more and there can be well-being in numbers. More Parrotlets means more eyes to alert the flock if there’s a problem and more friends to provide warmth.
Of course, you have to be careful not to put too many Parrotlets in. If there are too many for a space, then all sorts of problems can occur.
How Can You Decide How Many Parrotlets You Can Put Into An Aviary?
– Always make sure there is plenty of space. For each Parrotlet you add, you need to increase the space. In other words, a cage suitable for one or two Parrotlets needs to be increased for a third and increased again for a fourth.
– Always make sure their ages “match.”
Let’s put the Parrotlet ages into three groups: babies, young Parrotlets and adults. These three groups generally can’t be placed together. Adult Parrotlets can be cruel to younger ones; you, viral and hormonal Parrotlets can bully older Parrotlets.
If you house two or more together, make sure their ‘ages’ match.
– Provide an abundance — of food, of perches. I like to give my Parrotlets places to ‘hide,’ like a coconut. Within the aviary, I try to provide more perches than needed because some individuals will claim certain areas to be more-so theirs. I also like giving several feeding and drinking stations so that no individual can dominate it. With multiples, there is generally another place to feed or drink from.
-Birds, of course, are the reason we have the saying, “The pecking order.” It is important to be able to distinguish between your Parrotlet bickering and establishing a pecking order versus fighting, which can escalate and become dangerous. You can watch this video:
to help you start to see signs and some of the differences.
– When placing your Parrotlets into their new aviary, make sure it is new to every bird. Parrots fight over territories that are established, but when they all enter a new space (cage or aviary) at the same time, they can get comfortable with their new environment and mates at the same time.
– Similarly, all of the aviary’s resident Parrotlets should enter the aviary at the same time. This way no Parrotlet has had the time to claim the space.
Parrotlets are beautiful and fun parrots. They come in several color mutations, so an aviary with them can be beautiful to watch. We love walking into our large aviary and putting our hands into our smaller one with seeds to have them come and eat from our hands.
The trick is to monitor your Parrotlets to make sure they are getting along. It is common for me to set up an aviary or new communal cage and to have to remove a Parrotlet or two. Parrotlets are just like people. Some are gregarious; others aren’t as group-oriented. Some are sweet and congenial and others are cranky and don’t want to socialize.
It is important to watch and get to know your parrots. Generally speaking, if a parrot has been weaned or grown up with another parrot from a young age, then they are more likely to get along. As you watch, you’ll see who you can add to your aviary, adding to their experience and yours.
All of my aviary birds started as hand-fed babies here. If you are building a flock, our available Pacific parrotlets.
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Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
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BOOK
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TINK’S (CBD) OIL
CBD oil for parrots! Help de-stress your parrot’s plucking, anxiety or pain and support a healthy immune system at ParrotBliss.com which takes you to https://shop.petlife.zone/product/tinks-parrot-relief/
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Why Do Parrots Hide Their Illness?
Why Do Parrots Hide Their Illness?
There are two answers to that, the ‘real’ answer and the other ‘real’ answer!
People know parrots are flock animals, and yet they don’t always treat them as such. By definition a flock animal needs it’s flock. Parrots are accustomed to being with their flock all the time, which is why I always advocate for having two parrots. It means twice the fun for you, if you spend time with them, and that your parrot will still have a flock when you aren’t around.
What does being a flock animal have to do with hiding illness?
In the wild when an animal is sick they are often killed either by predators or their flock. This may be an act of benevolence or unforgiving, it probably depends on how you think of it. Given that any animal in the wild can’t go into an animal hospital to get well or have a comfortable end, this leaves a sick bird with one option: hide the illness and hope to recuperate.
If a parrot in a flock was obviously ill, they would make their flock an easy target for prey. If predators were stalking them for this prey, the whole flock would be at risk. So the flock minimizes it’s risk.
On the other hand, when a parrot is feeling well, their [[well-being]] depends on the flock. Even in a flock as small as two in our homes, Parrotlets enjoy the company and comfort of another Parrotlet. This, of course, is true for most species of parrot. The other parrot can preen new pin feathers on the head, which a parrot can’t reach on his or her own head. The other parrot’s signs of companionship, such as beak touching, feeding or snuggling, all provide mental, emotional and physical health.
This means that it can be argued that your Parrotlet (and many other species of parrots, such as Green-cheeked Conures, Cockatiels, Budgies and more) hides their signs of illness AND will be healthier when their flock includes you and another parrot!
Have a questions about parrots?
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Bonnie’s Cage Limitations: How Long Will It Take Her To Catch Up?
Golden Conures are hard to find!
Also knows as a #QueenOfBavaria, these parrots are hard to find. So, I chose to take Bonnie Rose, who was the perfect aged parrot for me, even though she’s been at a store for 6 or 7 months.
Unfortunately, those months of not getting to develop show. Bonnie has two apparent issues so far- an inability to balance and a lack of knowing how to fly.
I understand why exotic bird stores do it. The don’t want the bird to accidentally get out. It wouldn’t be fair to the parrot, who isn’t ready to be out in the wild and has been taught how to survive on their own, or to the store, who would lose their inventory.
Because she spent so much time in her cage up until now, Bonnie hasn’t developed a good sense of balance. In nature parrots live their lives on tree branches, which are constantly swaying. This makes them good at balancing on their feet – or just one foot. Bonnie is so used to being in a cage that never swayed that she loses her balance easily.
Not much to say about her flight feathers. Since she doesn’t have them, I know she hasn’t developed her muscles to fly. Nor will she until her feathers grow out, which I’m estimating will take about 6 months.
Finally, Bonnie has an aversion to being picked up out of her cage. She is afraid to step up. Sometimes we can tell that she wants to come out and be with us, but getting out and onto our hands seems to scare her. She can come out of her cage on her own, but the same is still true. If we offer her a shoulder to step up on she does better. Not sure why this is. We figure that she’ll get more comfortable in time when whatever she fears diminishes due to the absence of whatever was happening to her before.
Bonnie Rose is a wonderful Golden Conure. Typical of a Golden, she is loving and affectionate with my husband, my daughter, myself and the birds that approach her slowly. She doesn’t like being ‘accosted’ by someone or some bird approaching her too quickly. We are doing what we can to give her the time and space to relax, get to feeling at home and learn her sense of balance. We want her to feel as much at ease and secure as possible.
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Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
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BOOK
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TINK’S (CBD) OIL
CBD oil for parrots! Help de-stress your parrot’s plucking, anxiety or pain and support a healthy immune system at ParrotBliss.com which takes you to https://shop.petlife.zone/product/tinks-parrot-relief/
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YOUTUBE
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Keeping A Happy Parrot Flock That Gets Along
Parrots can be quite territorial –
In this video we’re talking about parrots getting along — not mating/breeding parrots.
When it comes to sharing, parrots are like people. They often think the grass is greener on the other side… so getting them to share food isn’t easy.
Instead, the two keys to keep in mind are:
1) Have multiple feeding stations available for your birds so that everyone has access to food. This way an alpha doesn’t have to come forward, causing one to dominate to eat while another goes hungry — or fights.
2) Cages
Smaller parrots, like Parrotlets, can usually be put together in a NEW cage right away. If a parrot has already been in the cage, it is harder to add a parrot to that cage. This is because one already has claimed the territory they are in. A new cage for both parrots means no one owns it yet and they can more easily come together.
*Any time you put two parrots together for the first time, you must watch them to make sure that they aren’t fighting or having any issues. Just in case your small parrots have an issue, it is best to have 3 cages. This way each parrot has their own cage and there is a third, ‘joint’ cage. If they are housed separately, each should be in their own; if together, then they should go in the joint cage.
The same is true for larger parrots – however, it is usually best to put these parrots in two cages side-by-side initially and let them ‘get to know’ each-other. Again, when the parrots are coming as close together in the cage as they can, then you can supervise and put them together. Similar to the smaller parrots, you should always have a cage for each parrot and a joint cage.
It may seem silly to have three cages, but it is a must if you are looking to house your parrots together. Even once they are living together without any problems, the ‘single’ cages are useful in case one isn’t feeling well and needs to have some quiet and undisturbed time alone.
In the video I’ve got 9 medium to large parrots out and everyone is getting along. One reason for this is that out back is no one’s ‘territory,’ it is neutral. The other reason is that I have three different areas with food so that they can each comfortably eat with the parrots they already know as their flock-mates. In other words, I have 9 parrots, 4 species. The Cape Parrots, African Grey parrots and Caiques already know each other. My Golden Conure is making friends, but I basically have 3 food stations and 3 mini flocks.
Always watch your parrots. When parrots are bonded with each other and you, they tend to know how to relate to one another and they tend to get along. Initially putting parrots together calls for some time for the ‘pecking order’ to be established. Once established, most of the issues have been worked out (hopefully you supervised to ensure to fighting/injuries) and parrots happily enjoy time around other parrots — as long as there is plenty of space and food for them all.
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Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
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BOOK
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TINK’S (CBD) OIL
CBD oil for parrots! Help de-stress your parrot’s plucking, anxiety or pain and support a healthy immune system at ParrotBliss.com which takes you to https://shop.petlife.zone/product/tinks-parrot-relief/
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YOUTUBE
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Do You Recognize Your Parrot’s Special Greeting To You?
Beak Language
One specific body language greeting that #parrots share in their beak.
A parrot’s beak is very significant to them, maybe as significant as their ability to fly-
Parrots use their beak for everything: as a hand, to experience things, to eat, to feed the parrot they are bonded with and to connect, greet and re-affirm that bond.
Is your parrot connecting with you with their beak? To they try to beak you? Feed you or have you feed them? Do they touch you with their beak? These are all signs that you are in your parrot’s inner circle! Your parrot may have even chosen you as their one special bonded mate!
Bite Or Beak
I distinguish between being bitten versus beaked – biting breaks your skin. The intent is to hurt you – your parrot is probably defending itself. Beaking, on the other hand, is like using a hand. When a parrot beaks you, they may be kissing you, moving your finger gently away or they may be curiously nibbling as they preen or play with your beauty mark or jewelry.
Beaking won’t hurt you, but rather is your parrot’s way of connecting.
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Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
Comment below, in my site (link below) or on the FB/Instagram messenger.
BOOK
Get my book Parrot Bliss Bond at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998010065?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
TINK’S (CBD) OIL
CBD oil for parrots! Help de-stress your parrot’s plucking, anxiety or pain and support a healthy immune system at ParrotBliss.com which takes you to https://shop.petlife.zone/product/tinks-parrot-relief/
FACEBOOK
Join Parrot Bliss on FB at https://www.facebook.com/ParrotBliss
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MOST COMMON QUESTIONS
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YOUTUBE
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Did I Quarantine My Golden Conure (Queen of Bavaria)?
If you have a parrot and you bring a new parrot home, should you quarantine your new bird?
Every expert will say, “Yes!”
What Does It Mean To Quarantine?
Unless you have a way of knowing that the new parrot your are bringing home to your flock is absolutely free of any bacterial infections, viruses or any other ‘thing,’ then you should quarantine your new bird.
To quarantine a bird means to give them a fixed amount of time in which they are not able to contaminate your flock. They are kept in a separate space which ensures that nothing physical or airborne can affect or get to your current flock.
Depending on who you ask, different quantities of time are given to quarantine a parrot, generally between 30 to 90 days.
What Diseases Are You Trying To Avoid?
PDD – Proventricual Dilation Disease
This is a diseases that, in layman terms, shrinks a parrot’s ‘stomach’ due to a viral presence. Parrots become weak and eventually die. There is no cure.
Layman (or Kalyn) terms, this is like AIDS for birds. It used to be called “Macaw Wasting Disease” because a parrot would ‘waste’ away. There is no cure
Psittacosis Or Chlamydia
Chlamydia causes Psittacosis. While there is a treatment, this is one of the few diseases that can be passed from your parrot to you.
Did I Quarantine Bonnie Rose, My Golden Conure (or Queen of Bavaria)?
I didn’t for several reasons:
She was tested for 4 diseases, including the three above.
I know where she’s been for the last 6 1/2 months.
I know how they take care of their parrots, reducing risks.
I find it uncommon to have so much information on a new parrot. Generally speaking, I don’t believe most breeders or bird stores test their parrots (I don’t know whether rescues test or not).
Given all the information I have on Bonnie Rose, I felt comfortable letting her be in my house. Bonnie Rose is so shy and timid that I’ve been keeping her away from the flock most of the time. In her unique circumstances, she needs to become more confident that she now has a flock. It was clear to us that she was longing for a home, a place to belong. We want her to learn that were here for her, no one is going anywhere.Her wings are, unfortunately, clipped and she’s not steady on a shoulder/moving perch. Until she feels more sturdy in herself, I want to see her adjust to our home, her new cage (eat well, which she does) before she’s truly integrated to the flock.
Have I Quarantined Before?
I have. I hate doing it because the new parrot is by him or herself most of the time. This is the opposite of what a parrot should be since they are so flock-oriented. However, you have to do what you have to do for everyone’s safety (every bird, that is).
My avian veterinarian said that some of these diseases had all but disappeared in parrots here in the US, but they seem to be making a come-back.
It is important to me to keep my flock as safe and healthy as possible. I tend to be very careful, therefore, about bringing new birds in or exposing my parrots to other parrots.
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Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
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The Best 3, FREE Parrot Toys You Already Have At Home
Free, Natural Toys
Is there anything better than a #parrot_toy that can be free AND that your #parrot will love?
Here are 3 toys that almost all of my parrots LOVE (or everyone loves at least one of these):
1) Natural egg carton
2) Brown, cardboard box
3) Brown paper bag
Parrot toys can be dangerous for your parrot. Some metal parts, cotton fibers and nylon threads can go so far as to be lethal to your bird. I can never figure out why toys are made this way…
These three, DIY (although there is nothing to do other than check for any other materials (sticker labels, clear tape or anything else you don’t want your parrot to have) are nice because they are made of natural materials and that makes them worry-free toys. And, I’m guessing that like my parrots, your parrots will love them!
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Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
Comment below, in my site (link below) or on the FB/Instagram messenger.
BOOK
Get my book Parrot Bliss Bond at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998010065?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
TINK’S (CBD) OIL
CBD oil for parrots! Help de-stress your parrot’s plucking, anxiety or pain and support a healthy immune system at ParrotBliss.com which takes you to https://shop.petlife.zone/product/tinks-parrot-relief/
FACEBOOK
Join Parrot Bliss on FB at https://www.facebook.com/ParrotBliss
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YOUTUBE
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How Much Time Should Your Parrot Be Out Of Its Cage?
Cages can be jails for parrots or wonderful homes.
A “cage-bound” parrot is one that has not been allowed out of their cage and now they are so used to being in their cage, that they don’t want to come out. They are too afraid.
One problem is that most cages are too small for your parrot to spread it’s wings and flap them vigorously. That’s a great exercise for young parrots that are learning to fly. Parrots that know how to fly should – at the very least – have the room to spread their wings. Sadly, that’s not always the case.
Giving your parrot time out of their cage is meant to give them time to engage, time to exercise and time to explore their world.
At my best, even though I work from home, don’t really travel and spend most of my time taking care of my parrots, I can’t give any one of my parrots a reliable amount of time every day. This is because different things come up and need to be taken care of. Sure, in general you can spend time with your parrot, maybe even several hours a day.
Parrots live in flocks of 20 to thousands, depending on the species. There are a few species that are exceptions, but most are accustomed to being with their flock, of close enough to hear them squawking, all night and day.
For us, as people, we think of our time in bed as time that would not spent with our parrot – and it can be dangerous to our parrot to sleep with them (people accidentally roll onto them and they suffocate). However, in the wild (depending on the species) and even in captivity, I find that a lot of parrots sleep right next to their mate.
Next, we run around getting ready for work or the day. If we go to work, we’re gone all day. This isn’t fair to a parrot that can’t understand why his/her mate is gone all night and then during the day too.
Parrots fly around during the day in the wild. This means that they are actively moving around, looking for food and staying with their flock.
Staying in a cage with nothing to do might be like putting Einstein in your attic with no connection and nothing to do.
How Much Time?
A parrot’s size, species, cage limitations and individual personality should all be factored in when deciding how much time your parrot needs out. The more time you can give them, the better.
Here are some things to consider:
Small Parrots
Small parrots have faster metabolisms. While they are more likely to be able to stretch their wings in their cage, if it isn’t too small, they have a lot of energy to burn. They like flying around a lot!
Large Parrots
While larger parrots, like larger Conures or Amazons, aren’t necessarily as active, they do fly but they need larger spaces in which to fly. My Mac’Girls (Macaws) open their wings to fly and they are already half way across the room it seems! They can fly for miles in the wild. Providing that kind of space to exercise is certainly challenging, I know. Free flying your parrot may allow them the space; otherwise, it is something to take into account when you are choosing a parrot. Large parrots really need more space than most houses can provide, but at least room to spread their wings and move is important — even if they don’t fly all day long.
Cage Size
If you are able to offer your parrot an aviary that allows them to jump around or fly, they may not need the same amount of time outside of their cage that most other parrots require.
Otherwise, letting your parrot out to go to their favorite place or to fly some is important. It is also important for them to have a space in your family’s home that is a ‘family room’ where the whole ‘flock’ comes together. In other words, you may have a bedroom to sleep in that is yours, just like your parrot has a cage, but a den or living room is a room you should enjoy together. This doesn’t necessarily mean that you are meant to spend all of your time paying attention to them. They don’t always pay attention to each other in the wild. It does, however, mean that you are sharing your lives together, as a flock. You are doing your thing, they are doing their’s, together.
Sure, you also want to spend some time engaging with your parrot – after all, that’s why you have a parrot. To bond with them and enjoy them. You just need to find the right balance for you both as to how much time needs to be spent engaging versus just being in the same ‘jungle!’
Individual Parrot Needs
The last factor is your parrot him or herself. Every parrot is unique. While some species are more energetic and active than others, there is also some variation within individuals of the same species.
Some parrots like to have more time and attention; others like to hang out and do their own thing. For example, my Cockatiel is not a typical Cockatiel. Generally speaking, they love to bond and be petted. However, not my LunaLove. She wants to be with me and around me, hang out on my shoulder — but not touched! If I try to pet her, she’ll give me a warning bite! She’s not the only one who is like that either.
In other words, each parrot has it’s own characteristics and preferences.
It is important to become aware of what your parrot needs to stay healthy and happy. I find that my parrots can accommodate my busy schedule because they have another mate of their species. It has never kept me from bonding with one or both of them, but it does add to the flock feel and, clearly, to their well-being.
Just like us, the more a parrot can be out of their cage playing, exploring and being with the flock (human and parrot) the happier and healthier they will be.
Have a questions about parrots?
As the author of “The Parrot Bliss Bond,” I love and welcome questions about having a parrot and creating one of the best experiences of your life!
Comment below, in my site (link below) or on the FB/Instagram messenger.
